Sewing Cafe

UFO Progress - Indygo Jacket Complete

2012-02-11T12:27:00.002-06:00

Sweet!! My "bed jacket" is complete. I finished sewing the buttons on last night.

Don't you think they are perfect? What a find at MJ trim.

I wish I could better express the scrumptious feel of the jacket. It's quilted layers feel more like a sweater then a jacket due to the fact that there is no interfacing or traditional tailored structuring.

The silk lining against the skin...don't think I need to say much on that score.

The slightly bell sleeve adds to the comfort, no binding at the elbow or bicep.

For a recap....we have a wool and angora blend fabric which has been hand quilted with silk thread to the silk charmeuse lining.

The princess and cuff seams are lapped and wrapped in the silk lining.

The lapels have a self designed primitive flower quilted on them. Which is echoed on the upper back panel as well.

All of the interior seams are neatly hidden.

I changed the hem line to swoop in the back. It's very flattering on and protects my lower back from being exposed to the cold morning air.

You can also see the silk bound shoulder seam from this angle.

The back princess seams open to a lapped vent from waist to hem.

The quilting pattern that runs up the back panel is worked in 3 colors of silk thread - teal, brown, and mint greeen

The cuffs have wool applique, needle felting, embroidery and echo quilting.

The hem is also bound with the silk lining.

The buttonholes are hand worked in a teal silk thread (doubled), something I do not do very often, but I think they add just the right touch here. Quite a bit more delicate then the pattern suggests, but the entire jacket is delicate I think.

Here we have my project worksheet..my scanner is out of comissh, so I had to take a picture of it.

As you can see this idea was launched in 2007 which I believe was when I purchased the wool fabric at a Minnesota sewing expo. I officially started sewing on it in August of 2011, put it aside for 4 months and committed to finishing it as my "Git R Done" resolution of 2012

The entire project cost $105.00

You can see the the progress posts at the links below.

Indygo Jacket - 1st post you can see the pattern, progress and interior seaming here.
2nd post the hand quilting and sleeve seam finish

This pattern was simple to put together, my additions proved labor intensive though. Needless to say you could machine quilt your layers, or do a standard lining in it and then it would go together quite quickly. That having been said , I found it a very suitable pattern for additional embellishment....so you just might want to get creative. The original instructions are complete and easy to follow. You may or may not want to amend the sleeve cuff ( see 2nd post) and if you have a full upper arm you will need to adjust your sleeve pattern as you normally would.

Jillybe asked me earlier why I was calling it a "bed jacket" and primarily that is because it was inspired by the lounging pajamas from glamour movies of the 30's and 40s. In those movies even middle class "broads"

had the must outrageous lounging costumes.

I just think every women needs just such a garment.

Let's crawl out of our sweatpants and slip on something luxurious. We deserve it:)

Project Organization - The Notebook & A Give Away

2012-02-08T09:13:00.000-06:00

Here we have another installment on how I organize my sewing projects.

To see the first installment click here

This is the note book I keep all my sewing projects in.

It is a standard 3 ring notebook with vinyl cover The vinyl cover allows you to slide in a paper of your choice to help identify the contents....or to just make attractive.

I used some scrapbook paper by Cosmo Cricket called " Material Girl"

How could I possibly resist that?

Inside my notebook I store my:

1. Personal Croquie,

2. My measurement form along with family members forms

3. Sewing Project Worksheets

4. Completed projects - which get filed towards the back

5. Fabric Swatches from stash

For my fabric swatches I use index cards and I record :

1. Yardage amount

2. Fiber content and washing instructions

3. Store where purchased

4. How much I payed and saved if on sale

5. Date of purchase

I also keep "Preferred measurements" cards in my notebook as well, but I will leave that for another post:)

The advantages to using a system like this, is that it removes the fear and clutter from my brain. The fear of course being that I will forget some project and the clutter.....well the less said about that the better-lol

Once it goes into the notebook I can move onto more designing and creating. When I am ready to add a project into the rotation I look through my notebook and decide what is appropriate for the season, and difficulty level I am currently willing to add to the mix. It also provides a record of techniques, interfacing and alterations, which is very useful when doing a similar project.

In general I have 3-4 projects going at time. This generally means that one is in pattern stage, one is in construction and one is handwork intensive. When I am working on a project it gets removed from the notebook and pinned to my bulletin board.

I challenge you to try this with 3 projects. Download the form, or make one yourself, fill them out and see if you don't feel a sense of calm:)

Comment about your results and I will do a random drawing for a custom note book give-away

Sleeve pattern correction

2012-02-05T15:15:00.000-06:00

Remember my annoyance with this sleeve hem ? Your hems in general should be level with your wrist or if its a skirt parallel to the floor. This is always the case unless you have an obvious design feature as seen with the new swallowtail hems or those elegant sleeve points which fall down over the hand and attach to your ring finger.

But I am looking for a standard and correct sleeve hem and so I will need to make some adjustments to my Eva Dress 7482 pattern. So lets begin.....

This is what my sleeve hem looked like after making up the muslin. The dotted line is my hem line. The seam running up the center is my underarm seam which forms the placket at the hem. In modern patterns the placket is sewn as a extra piece. On this vintage pattern the buttons are purely decorative and this little placket closes up with a few snaps.

I begin by pinning my sleeve seam together along the stitch line. I can/need only do this for a few inches. Its a little awkward as it does not want to lay flat if I continue pinning to far up the seam.

Once I do this I can see that where the seam lays, it needs to be about 3/8" longer to be even with the front hemline.

Because my pattern tracing is done on household wax paper I can simply take a strip of wax paper and add it to the sleeve hem by pressing with an iron.

If you use paper of course you can tape your strip on.

Now I re-pin my sleeve seam....

Turn it over and cut through all layers along the front hem cutting line.

In this picture you can see where the buttons are supposed to go.

I open my sleeve once again and I can see my new curved hem line.

Now I trim the excess wax paper off the sleeve seam.

This is my new correctly shaped hem and my sleeve is ready to be cut out:)

By the way that is my blouse fabric that the pattern is laying on, my favorite shade of red

Do you have pattern alterations that you commonly make that are not related to fitting?

Craftsy Block of the Month for January

2012-02-03T09:55:00.003-06:00

I like to keep abreast with the big wide world of quilting. Many of my students are quilters and I like to use quilting as a means of teaching accuracy in cutting and sewing. Oh yeah and its fun.

So when I learned about the Craftsy.com Block of the Month class by Amy Gibson and learned that it was free...Well what an opportunity to learn some new techniques and learn about Craftsy.com as well.

Each month, on the first of the month you learn by video tutorial and printable instructions how to make 2- 12 " blocks. Once you are registered you can access the class at any time , as many times as you want and for as long as you want! Such a Deal right?

Yesterday, I sewed up my blocks for January.

Presenting the Asterisk block - Lesson one in strip quilting....

and the Wonky # block. Fun right?

I have been wanting to play with some bright and fresh colors and this project will provide the perfect opportunity.

This is one of the aspects I enjoy about quilting it allows me to explore some fun and new color combinations.

This is a combination of some newly purchased fat quarters that I have mixed in with some stash fabrics.

I love the ric rack print:) Think I will need more of that:)

Then I found some awesome prints at Whipstitch that I want to add..but there are so many cool choices it will be fun deciding.

Quilting classes are not the only thing offered at Craftsy...in fact Susan Khalje is offering a dress course which I would highly recommend if you want to improve your garment sewing skills. She is a knowledgeable instructor and for those of us in remote locations this is a great opportunity to take a class from her.

And have I mentioned that I have wanted to learn how to crochet....can you believe I don't know this already?

Have you taken any classes over at Craftsy yet?

Which one?

Do you quilt or are you a garment purist?

Are you a quilter, who we needs to be encouraged to sew garments? Cuz I love to help others broaden their skills and interests :)

Eva Dress Contest - 1937 blouse #7482 Muslin

2012-01-31T10:42:00.000-06:00

Here is the muslin for my Eva Dress Contest entry.

I love this blouse. I was a little surprised by the amount of fullness in the sleeve cap and initially thought I would reduce it a touch. But that would not be holding to the rules of the contest....and when I tried it on, it just looked great! I love the way the neckline curves up onto the neck, don't you?

Chuck says "Wow! That is perfect for you...very nice"

I am pleased and looking forward to making it up in my wool challis.

Now about the pattern....

The instructions for sewing the neckline facing and attaching the lower bodice to the upper bodice are .....out of date, although possibly easier then how I chose to do it. There is not a separate neck facing, just extensions along the front and back neck edge that get turned back and blind hemmed in place.

The instructions want you to overlap the shoulder seam - meaning fold back the seam allowance along the back shoulder, gather the front shoulder, Lay the folded back shoulder onto the front shoulder and edge stitch.

Here you can see the Blouse back, at least one shoulder and half of the neck.

I stay stitched the edge, clipped into it and placed the front shoulder to the back shoulder with right sides together and stitched. It is a bit tricky getting around that turn, similar to a shawl collar. Once both shoulder lines are sewn you can turn your facing back and blind stitch as suggested.
This technique is repeated to attach the lower blouse front to the upper, but again I placed right sides together and stitched. You could certainly add the edge stitching after, if you like the look.

From here I will play with the gathering distribution on that sleeve cap, this might have been a misunderstanding of the patterns marks on my part.
Can you see the difference between the illustration and my muslin? Yikes!

I also need to adjust the sleeve hem and placket which is simplicity itself as it has no placket piece, but has you create a placket from the under arm sleeve allowance and using hem tape to finish. For authenticity's sake I will finish it that way. The hem line though is uneven forming a peak at that underarm seam, which needs to be leveled out. This might have occurred when I adjusted the length of the sleeve....I will be sure to post a tutorial on how to fix that simple and commonly found error.

UFO Progress report - Indigo Junction Jacket IJ741

2012-01-29T17:08:00.002-06:00

Something has come over me....I find myself once again committing myself to new projects!

How does this happen when clearly I have plenty of unfinished projects to keep me busy...quite busy.

My new schedule is allowing me more time to sew...but let's not get carried away Lynne

Maybe an intervention is in order.

When last we left this project it looked very ...very similar to this, but there has been some progress.

The hem is complete.

If you look closely you can now see the sashiko stitching in silk thread up the center back.

I have also made progress on the other sleeve.

The hand quilting is completed.

I accomplished this by basting the wool and silk layers together ( long white thread)

Marking 1" lines with a chalk wheel

Then I did a hand quilting or running stitch.

This does not take as long as you think it will....really:)

I am careful to not do my running stitch to close to the seam line because I will need room to press the seam open once it has been machine sewn. I pin the silk lining out of the way because I don't want to catch it in the seam.

After my seam is sewn I press it open using a seam stick. This prevents me from pressing a crease in the silk lining.

Once the seam has been pressed open I can lay the silk over the seam and hand stitch it closed.

I will do this tonight while watching Downtown Abbey.

I will also fix this little annoyance...

Do you see how the hem is uneven....Argh. This is a basic pattern mistake which really rather irritates me. It's also a rather common mistake.

But what irritates me more is that I let it get this far....why?

When I trued up the pattern, I did not fix it...and this is something I specifically look for!

When I sewed up my cuff all I needed to do was trim it even with the front hem before I hand bound the hemline! Each time I encountered this issue I just kept thinking " Oh for goodness sake Lynne, lighten up, its a bed jacket" Ah yeah, a bed jacket I will be spending many many many hours on.

If your going to do something....do it to the best of your ability.

Clearly this needs to be fixed especially since I didn't let it get this far on the other cuff - lol

So tonight..while watching Downtown Abbey this will be ripped back to the point where I can make it right.

Do you ever see a problem coming and do nothing to prevent it from becoming a bigger problem?

Why?

Will I ever stop this?

Please share your similar experiences with me..

I need to know I am not the only one who pursues such a foolish course.

Caped Crime Fighter - Dart & Godet tutorial

2012-01-27T08:16:00.001-06:00

This tutorial covers the sewing directions on the WS1002 Caped Crime Fighter Pattern under

"Cowl Sewing Instructions" steps 2-7

This is how your side Cowl #5 will look after cutting out and marking the darts and Godet cutting line. Cut along the Godet cutting lines an inch or two.

Do not cut any deeper until after the darts are sewn.

Step #2

Fold the darts with right sides together down the center and place pins at each end.

To insure your darts are accurately sewn. Pierce the fabric with your pin along the front stitch line and straight through to the back stitch line as shown.

Continue to pin along your dart stitch line and then sew from one end to the other.

Always press your dart flat first being careful to not press beyond the point, which would cause the dreaded dimple.

Once the dart is pressed flat you will press the dart that leads into the godet towards the front of the cowl. The lower dart which touches the hem line will be pressed towards the back of the cowl.

Step #4 & 5

Moving onto the godet piece #7 - It is important that you mark the dot located at the apex of the godet.

You will notice that one side of the godet is slightly shorter then the other. The longer edge gets sewn to the longer/leading godet cut line.

You can now cut the godet cut line to within 1/2" of your sewn dart.

With right sides together pin the dot on the Godet #7 to the very end of your sewn dart.

Place another pin at the bottom edge matching the cut line.

The cut line will not match along the entire edge.

Sew from the dot maintaining a 1/2" seam allowance along your Godet cut edge. Your bottom edge may or may not match depending on the accuracy of your cutting and dart sewing, but don't worry if its a little short or long, this will get trimmed when you finish the hem edge.

This is what you seam line will look like from the cowl side once sewn.

I realize this part is scary...but you will now continue cutting along your godet cutting line right up to the end of your dart and beginning of your godet stitch line.

Step #6

Flip it over so your right sides match again and the opposing cutting line is "matched up with your opposite godet edge. You will pin as you did the first, matching the cut lines at the bottom. Sew from the top to the bottom maintaining your 1/2" seam allowance along the godet only. The godet cut line will have a very narrow seam allowance at the top gradually ending in the 1/2" at the bottom. Here you can see that my hem lines don't quite match...no worries because remember you will be trimming that when you finish the hem.

Step #7

Press the godet from the right side making sure the seam allowance is laying nice and flat.

From the right side then stitch in the ditch along the edge of the dart grabbing the top tip of the godet to secure.

Now repeat for the other side and your side cowl pieces will be ready to sew to your center cowl piece.

Please leave a comment if you have any questions and I will respond back as soon as possible.

Hope you have enjoyed learning a new skill:)

The Eva Dress Contest - The 1937 Blouse begins

2012-01-25T22:47:00.001-06:00

Last week I mentioned the Eva Dress contest and showed you the 1940's Playsuit pattern I am planning on making into Gardening Overalls.

Today I thought I would share my other possible entry this 1937 Blouse which I plan on entering in the 3rd Category, which is described as: The Best use of pattern in its original form. The garment must follow the pattern devoutly (meaning no changes to the design, although grading or alteration for proper fit are appropriate.

The pattern number is 7482 and it is available in a size 16 (34" bust)

This of course is my project worksheet for said blouse.

I am making it from a lovely burnt red wool challis.

Needless to say though before I can cut into my fabulous fabric I must trace the pattern and sew up a muslin, This is strongly recommended on the pattern as these are original period patterns. This means that the markings are minimal and unfamiliar to the contemporary seamstress, and the sizing my be different as well.

I traced my pattern out onto wax paper, a method I often use as its very transparent , inexpensive. It's easy to make as wide as needed by simply overlapping the sheets by a few inches and ironing.

I found it helpful to refer to the sewing directions as I was tracing to insure I was understanding the marks. The pattern included a nice diagram of each pattern piece with additional information written on it. For instance where the gathering happens between dots the diagram will say "gather", the grain lines and hems are marked with dots, but the diagram helps you to understand which is which.

The pattern only has 5 pieces and the construction looks very straight forward although again a little different then contemporary methods, but I will talk more about that as I move into the construction.

Upon measuring the pattern I found the actual pattern measurements to be:

Bust - 37"

Waist - 33"

Hem Circumference - 37"

Center Back to waist length - 17"

Sleeve length - 25"

The only pattern alteration I made at this stage was to shorten the sleeve 2". 1" above the elbow and 1" below. The bust may prove a little small for me and the waist a little large but I will sew up the muslin before I make those changes.

Hope to see you soon with the muslin...wouldn't it be nice if I could get that sewn up this weekend:)

What will you be sewing this weekend?

Have you ever made any of the Eva Dress patterns?

Will you be entering this years contest?

Eva Dress contest & Sewing Project Organization

2012-01-23T18:12:00.000-06:00

Today I thought I would share with you how I catalog my sewing projects and ideas. When the pieces start coming together for a project I like to organize them in such a way that I can track my time, ideas and expenses. I do this for clients as well as my personal sewing.

It begins with a form I made which was inspired by Roberta Carr's worksheet as found in:

"Couture The Art of Fine Sewing"

You are welcome to download my form and use it for your projects. You can find the form here

For the Eva Dress Contest I am planning on making this 1940 playsuit

My plans for these overalls are to use them for gardening although I am seriously haunted by making silk pajamas as well.

Just Imagine how luxurious I would feel wearing a silk charmeuse playsuit with my Indigo Junction bed jacket?

Can you say "Mr D'Mille I am ready for my close up"?

Alas the sensible side of me says I need something fashionable and serviceable to garden in. Which would mean cotton lined linen overalls with some cargo type pockets to carry tools. I also want to be able to roll the hem up, to keep them out of the water. In order to accommodate that I will add some straps inside the side seam which will button to the outside side seam. Not sure yet what I will use for the jacket, which I will most likely need. A lightweight cotton shirting would suit as it would protect me from the sun and bugs.

I put in as much information as I have to begin and then I will add to the worksheet as I progress.

Under the Pattern Alterations I make notes about size changes I make.

The Design changes is where I list...well changes I want to make from the original design of the pattern. As I am doing that I will make notes about any special cutting issues I might need to consider and list them under Cutting notes.

I think you get the idea:)

At this stage of the project nothing is written in stone. The sheet serves as a reminder and reference. I slip the sheet into a sheet protector and place it in my project notebook. When I want to start something new, usually as I am finishing up some other project I will flip through my notebook and see what beckons. As I finish them I move them to the back of the notebook so I can refer to them later. Sometimes I think I know what I want to do with a particular fabric and I create a project sheet for it, but I can always change my mind later if I find different pattern or need.

I like to use these when shopping for additional trims and notions all the info is available and easy to carry along. Once I start working on them I pin them to my bulletin board for a constant visual reminder. Currently I have 4 of them pinned and in progress.

Do you have a way you like to organize your sewing projects or would you rather not bother and just dig in?

UFO Progress Pos t- Indigo Junction Jacket

2012-01-17T15:59:00.000-06:00

This is the simple Indigo Junction Pattern that launched my less then simple Bed Jacket.

I have made some progress on it since we last saw it listed as a UFO from August 2011

Of course this was done back in August when after tracing the pattern onto Pattern Ease I pinned it together for a test fitting. This is not something I normally do as I have not found it a reliable means of fitting, but I thought that with a loose, soft jacket it would suffice.

I of course had to shorten the length of the sleeve which I did above the cuff point.
I created a narrower fit through the back waist, and took some of the swing out of the front.
I also decided to taper the hem a touch, so that it sweeps a bit to the back.

The recent progress I have made is:

1- completing the needle felting and embroidery on both cuffs.

2 - hemming and attaching the cuff to the sleeve

3 - Sewing the shoulder seams and binding them with silk

4 - Have begun finishing the hem by wrapping the lining to the right side and doing a hand applique stitch to secure.

This is the glass button I will be using for the front closure. A stellar find at MJ Trims.

hand quilting on jacket with hem at top of screen

This is the inside back of the jacket.

If you look closely you can see the hand quilting which holds the silk lining to the Angora/wool face fabric.

As hard as I tried I could not get a good picture of this from the outside, as it is very subtle.

The hand stitching is done in a silk thread and the pattern runs up the center back and I repeated part of the motif on the front lapels.

The rest of the body is channel stitched at 1" intervals

This sleeve still needs it channel quilting. Fortunately it is the only garment piece that still requires this. Once the sleeve layers are quilted together the cuff will get attached and then the sleeves will be ready to set:)

I am still deciding how I want to do the buttonhole as well as finish the center front and lapel edge.

I am also considering adding a bit of a mandarin collar as well, because I am always cold and having something on my neck seems to help.

Victorian Bodice Thrift Store Find

2012-01-13T11:47:00.001-06:00

Late this summer I stopped by a local thrift store, one which I have not been into for years, to shop for vintage sewing items. Upon walking into the dust and gloom( very grandma's attic like) I spotted this brown silk taffeta Victorian bodice!!

Warning! This post is very photo laden, so it may take time to load, but if you are a fan of Historical dress I hope you will find it well worth the wait :)

Simple and so lovely.

It measures 34" at the bust and 25" at the waist, 12" across the back

All of the latest fashion with it's origami folds has nothing on these Victorian forerunners.

After doing some research I would place this Cuiraisse style bodice from about 1880.

The fan detail here on the back suggests that the skirt that originally went with this bodice had a slim front with back bustle.

Similar to the picture below of Lumina Garnier

Photo courtesy of Garnier Family Photo collection

Are you ready for the detail shots?

The bodice has 18 shell and metal button. Very difficult to photograph I might add.

The cut silver disc sits on top of what appears to be black mother of pearl which has a fluted edge.

3 of the buttons are missing :(

Sleeve cuff detail on the 3/4 length sleeve.

The pleating/folds which would lay over the bustle.

The hand worked buttonholes which are more then half covered by the front tucks.

The interior is flat lined with brown twill and has one bone along the center back seam which extends past the waist. The inside placket piece closes with hooks and eyes at the waist.

you can see the selvage edge of the fabric along both center fronts.

The seams appear to be machine sewn and hand overcast.

This shows a the intricacies of the back pleats/folds

I picked out a few stitches at the top of the bone casing to reveal the type of boning used.

I believe its reed but have not confirmed this.

A final shot of the interior with the price tag still attached.

The inside of the collar shows some loose threads which suggest that lace was sewn in at one time or perhaps a velvet ribbon? Nothing similar at the sleeve cuff which could have been a possibility there.

This bodice still needs to be cleaned which I am still doing research on but I am thinking of making a skirt to go with it, so that it can be properly displayed.

For all my blogging friends who have a passion for historical clothing I would welcome any suggestions and information you would be willing to provide on its proper restoration.

If there are any other pictures or info you would be interested in, in regards to this bodice please feel free to ask.

I will be happy to oblige:)

One UFO complete - Knitting Smartie

2012-01-07T19:38:00.002-06:00

Ta Da!! or Voila' whichever you prefer....me I just love that its done and I can now wear it it!

I started knitting this cardigan as part of my Fall Essentials wardrobe and previously posted about here:

Knitting Smartie post

I love the shaping on this cardigan which has darts as well as side seam shaping.

I love the vent detail and moss hem stitch at the hemline.

I love the flecks of lighter color in the yarn which helps to create more depth of color.

I love the 3/4 length sleeve.

They yarn felt wonderful in the hand but did want to split easily which made me nervous about some of the sections where I had to rip back and redo, but when finished it recovered fine, steamed and blocked well, and now I am looking forward to seeing how well it retains its shape.

When tried on for the first time my husband gasped and said "Like it was made for you" which of course it was, but we always say it because good fit is so hard to achieve and is always greeted with great satisfaction and maybe a little pride. He of course was not just referring to the fit but the style as well, which does really suit me:)

I would certainly recommend this pattern and will without a doubt make it up again because the style is useful,flattering and not at all difficult to knit up.

I plan on wearing it tomorrow and will try to post pictures of the ensemble.

How is your sewing going in the New Year?

Do you have a new skill you would like to learn?

I am seriously considering sewing up a vintage garment this year....any suggestions?

What piece of vintage/ historical costume clothing would you like to see a tutorial of?

The Dark Knit

2012-01-04T15:48:00.000-06:00

The Bat Saga begins
I hope all of my readers are aware of my husbands love for the 66 Batman T.V. show with Adam West.
His desire for a replica costume began when he was a small boy..in fact he remembers finding "Batman blue" fabric in a local store, but alas his mother could not sew:( so no bat suit for little Chuck.

Many years later he marries yours truly and the quest for the absolute replica bat suit began in earnest, after all his new wife knows how to sew....

Chucks favorite picture of Lynne in the Bat Cowl

Little did I know how much this project would impact our lives...who would have guessed?

Since we began this saga we have purchased 100's of yards of fabric, viewed countless blue satin swatches, created patterns, worn the original suits ( thanks Mark Hardeman), met other fans of the show and have sold dozens of cowls all over the world.

So naturally, when a beloved client of ours announced that his wife was pregnant with their first child.....we decided this special baby must have a Bat Cowl of his very own....Naturally:)

Picture of a very good baby, no screaming or nothing..ahh

This cotton knit Bat Cowl was made by Peg's niece Laura at Flour & Fibers

We sent her pictures of one of our cowls and she developed the pattern and knit up this very unusual baby gift.

This is one of the photos she sent for approvals.

Awesome right?

Chuck and I were so thrilled and our client was thrilled as well.

Plus Little Luke will be able to wear/ have his picture taken in this cowl for a few years yet.

I guess the moral of this saga is...good things come with patience, endurance and lots of love.

I would personally like to think all of our clients who have contributed to this saga of love and costumes because without them...Chuck would not have his Replica Bat Suit. Luke would not have a hat for his little head, and I...well....I would have a lot less fun at my job.

Adam West in costume Chuck Williams in costume

A Great Beginning to the New Year

2012-01-01T22:24:00.000-06:00

Today my mailman delivered this treat to my door:D

This box of candy came all the way from San Francisco via Sunny Gal Studio

because she was kind enough to have a give away and ....can you believe it...I won the candy!

See's Candy is a West Coast treat. I have fond memories of standing in a See's candy store and choosing the candies that would go in our family chocolate box. Apricot Delights, caramel marshmallows, chewy chocolates...such a treat. This is the only time I have had a box all to myself. How decadent!

Thank you Beth for hosting such a lovely give away.

If you are not familiar with Beth's blog you should really check her out.

I enjoy seeing pictures of her flower filled sun drenched garden, and her beautifully tailored garments with their elegant finishes.

SunnyGal Studio Sewing

This picture taken from her blog is of a vintage project she found at an estate sale.

The pieces were all cut out and labeled it just needed sewing up by a pair of loving hands.

Follow the link to read the whole story.

Vintage Treasure Where You Least Expect It

Thanks again Beth.

The UFO Countdown or Git R" Done Girlfriend

2011-12-30T16:00:00.000-06:00

As the new year approaches I find myself bogged down by unfinished projects.

As much as I want to sew for Spring of 2012 I cannot help feeling like it's time to finish what I started in 2011...or before.

They are all worthy projects and the time is right to bring them out, reevaluate and dig back in.

So in no particular order I bring you my unfinished projects:

This wall hanging (which I have no place to hang) was started as a class sample. It is several years old and needs to be quilted....and then what?

Indygo Junction Bed Jacket

This jacket was started in August 2011. It is a wool/angora blend lined with silk and hand channel quilted throughout the body. The sleeve cuff is needle felted, appliqued and quilted. No surprise it was set aside when my work load became to demanding for them both.

According to my project worksheet this quilt kit ( a first for me) was purchased in Sept. 2009 . The piecing was completed in Dec. of that same year. I quilted the body of the quilt in 2010 and then put it aside because I could not decide how to quilt the border.....
Dare I say applique...to much....any thoughts?

This lovely pile of old lace and silk chiffon will become an even lovelier blouse this year!

The blouse back is pieced together and once again work interrupted.

The work sheet for this project is dated Jan. 2011 and was intended for my spring wardrobe.....sigh.

It will look just as lovely this spring, maybe even more so because I have been working out this winter:)

In 1997? I moved to a wonderful little town and took a "class" to make this mystery quilt as a means of meeting the local stitchers. For those of you unfamiliar with mystery quilts....you receive a list of supplies but you do not know what the pattern is...thus the mystery:)

To have this quilted will easily cost me $75-150...do I like it enough for that investment?

What to do, what to do?

Remember this yarn? It was purchased this summer to make a sweater for my Fall Wardrobe....yup.
All of the components are knit up and I am currently sewing the sections together, so it's well on its way.
My evening sewing / knitting project much of which was accomplished while watching past seasons of the Biggest Loser.

Do you feel pressured or stressed out by your unfinished projects or are they "art in progress" for you?
Anybody want to join me for a UFO sew along?
Do we need a button and a Flickr group?

Jasmine Blouse Review

2011-11-13T15:46:00.001-06:00

The Jasmine blouse felt like a long journey, but I am pleased with the changes I made and look forward to hearing your thoughts on the project.
It is my final Fall Palette Challenge piece, outside of a sweater I am still knitting.
It's a good thing I am bringing my fall sewing to a close seeing as how we received our first snowfall this week....6" or more! Most Alarming!

Jasmine blouse by Lynne Williams with revisions

The fabric had a border pattern running across the grain about every 30" which required some planning.

I drew up a few sketches placing the border at various locations and ended up with this plan.

Placing it along the top of the pattern framed the neckline in front, and reminded me of a midi blouse.

Jasmine blouse by Lynne Williams with revisions

On the back you can see I placed the border just over the hem which I think accentuates the curves in my figure.

As mentioned in a prior post, the pattern is accurately made and the instructions are very easy to follow. I can certainly recommend this pattern especially if you want to learn how to sew a bias cut garment.

You will learn about working on the bias while keeping the project simple and not get yourself overwhelmed.

I changed the length of the sleeve to fall below my elbow.

A simple change - lengthen the sleeve pattern by the desired amount.

Then I ran a gathering stitch around the hem edge and created a narrow 1/2" band to finish it.

I used a strip from the border print to set it off.

My hem band was cut 2" x 9" and of course I cut 2.

I also brought the neckline in 1-1/2" towards my neck on each side. I love the width of the original pattern, but it just was not flattering for my narrow little skull-lol, or maybe it is my lack of jaw....probably the combination. If you can wear it wide by all means do so...its so lovely like that.

I also changed how the collar was made and assembled.

The collar pattern has 2 parts a collar back and the collar front which lengthens into the tie.

You are instructed to cut 4 front collars and 2 back collars, like a standard collar. Additionally it has a interfaced facing...front and back.

I am not a huge fan of facings, they tend to be difficult to control, additionally I did not think the collar laid particularly well, it wants to ripple along the outside edge.

Instead I chose to make the collar a sash cut on the bias and folded in half lengthwise.

This causes the gentle roll, which lifts it upwards from the neckline and the outer edge lays nice with no rippling.

I then replaced the facing with a strip of self bias like you see on many knit necklines.

I plan on making another one of these blouses from one of my silks. I just hope I have enough of this lovely periwinkle charmeuse I have had in my stash for about 20 years!! It is one of those fabrics you love so much, you are afraid of doing the wrong thing with it.

Do you have fabrics in your stash like that?.

My apologies for not having pictures of me wearing the blouse, its so much easier to slip it on my form and snap a picture and get blogging then setting up for a photo shoot. I understand this is breaking a cardinal rule of good blogging...but it's so time consuming....plus it leaves me room for improvement-lol

Maybe one day I will have my act together enough to take wonderful fashion /location pictures like some of my favorite blogs....girls I think you know who you are. I do so appreciate their efforts....one day.....one day.

Let's Dress up....in Costumes that is.

2011-11-11T10:11:00.001-06:00

Now I am not a fan of Halloween as I like to avoid making light of death, demons, the devil and zombies. But I do enjoy a good costume and dressing up is so much fun. As attested to by these photos.

1966 Batman Mini me

Todd Mello made this amazing mini replica costume for his son. How cute is this?

Tom did an amazing job and I am told that he used our Caped Crime Fighter Pattern as reference,

with the belt pattern being reduced down proportionally.

I was also informed that Todd had plans of a costume of his own, but ran out of time creating this super suit for his son.

Having a husband who is a huge bat fan..I can appreciate the sacrifice that was made, but no doubt we can look forward to seeing the dynamic duo appear next year.

Really well done Todd, my cowl is off to you sir!

Paige Garrison as Marilyn Monroe

Paige is a new student of mine and we have so enjoyed having her in our sewing group at Sewing Cafe.

Her mother taught her to use her machine, but she considers herself to be a beginner.

She is fearless.

This is not a project I would recommend to a beginner, but did she learn a lot...you bet!

She had a party to attend with friends in Minnesota....friends who did not even recognize her I am told.

Paige Garrison as Marilyn Monroe

Well Done Paige!!

Looking forward to our next sewing adventure.

If you have any questions you would like me to ask our costume makers, please comment below and I will be sure to follow up.

My thanks to Todd Mello and Paige Garrison for sharing these photos with us.

In the Studio this week - Swing Coats and Bunny Uniforms

2011-11-04T11:39:00.001-05:00

I have come to realize that sometimes I make promises on this blog that I do not keep.

It's a shocking thing to realize about yourself.

In an attempt to rectify this bad habit I am sharing what Peg and I have been working on in the studio this week(as promised...), which has been a dressy swing coat with matching hand muff, alterations, and a Playboy Bunny uniform.

This silk taffeta swing coat was made using a Butterick 4928

My client/student is making a dress from the same silk taffeta, and due to her date deadline :) decided it was advisable to split the project up by having me make the coat.

This elegant dress coat has a surprise....

It's lined with Minky, yes Minky and we made a very warm Minky lined faux fur hand muff to compliment the coat. If you are in need of a dress coat...and who of us is not?.....I can recommend this unusual combination of fabrics. The coat is lightweight and oh so cozy, with its warm and comfy lining. If you don't need a dress coat..how about a housecoat? Think about it....Right?

Now on to the Bunny Uniform... because who wants to talk about alterations when there is serious costuming to discuss.

The girls in club uniform greeting Hugh Hefner at the airport

A favorite client of mine commissioned the Union Jack Bunny costume, (seen at far right), but the seamstress who was hired to add the flag pattern became ill, making it impossible for her to do her part.

I hope she is feeling better soon

Union Jack Playboy Bunny Uniform in progress.

Enter Lynne.....who received a base suit made by Bunny PJ in Navy blue, with tail and name tag. Following many reference photos I have begun basting satin ribbon onto the suit to replicate the Union Jack Flag.

Union Jack Playboy Bunny Uniform in progress.

As you can see I have the central cross section basted on, and will start laying in the angled sections soon.

The costume arrived with ribbon, which was a nice time saver, but unfortunately I believe that one of the red ribbons is in the wrong width....so I am on the hunt for some 5/8" red satin ribbon which will match the red I already have.

My dress form is a little small in the waist for this size 8 suit which accounts for the bubbling going on...but notice how the ribbons go over and under each other? Interesting I thought.

Once all the basting is done the hand applique will begin.

So there you have it...this week in the studio.

No progress has been made on my Jasmine blouse as of yet...maybe this weekend.

I am such an optimist...

The Jasmine blouse by Colette patterns

2011-10-30T16:34:00.000-05:00

This pattern appealed to me because of its sweet femininity, and I guess I like to think of myself like that-LOL

I have also been anxious to try one of the Colette patterns for a few reasons.

1. they seem to be quite popular.

2. I like supporting independent designers.

3. I wanted to test the pattern and instructions, to see if I would recommend them to my students.

Bengal spice tea in vintage cup with Lemon cookies

Upon it's arrival, I of course like everyone else was impressed with it's cuteness. The graphics are adorable and inviting. It says "let's put the kettle on, bake some tea cookies and plan our wardrobe" At least that is what it said to me....your results may vary:)

Jasmine blouse photo courtesy of Colette patterns.com

I knew from looking at the illustration as well as the photos of the finished blouse that I wanted to lengthen the sleeves to mid-forearm. This is a personal issue.....Elbows to me are like knee's, not attractive. If you don't cover them, then you need to find the correct height above them, to draw your eye away from the wrinkled knob of flesh. This, like everything else gets worse as you age...

I also felt there was something not quite right about the collar, but I could not put my finger on it. It just didn't seem to lay properly, or was it a touch to narrow?

It looks so sweet in the photo what exactly is my issue?

I loved the shape of the neckline, the tie, the slight gathering on the sleeve at the shoulder, and that is was cut on a figure flattering bias, as well as the fact that it had no closures.

Hooray, a simple and lovely blouse to "whip out"

Jasmine blouse mocked up in Tencel by Lynne Williams

I finished my tea and cut out my "muslin" or "mock frock" as one of my clients/ students calls them.

I found a piece of Tencel in my stash that replicated the weight and drape of my finished fabric choice.

The pattern is delightfully accurate. My bust currently measures 37" and I traced the size 8.

The fit is very nice, straight off the pattern. The bias drapes in a predictable figure flattering way. My husband quite liked it:)

The neckline though made me feel suddenly quite old:(

Was it just the color of the blouse....?

The depth of the neckline is very nice. Often times I have to raise necklines, as I am not keen on showing cleavage...supposing I had some...but the depth of this neckline was just right. My husband agreed something was amiss, and I don't mean with the pattern, but just that the style lines were not flattering to my face. I am rather stumped by this because I like it just fine on my dress form.

After much pondering I have decided to make it narrower at the shoulder line. Lengthen my sleeves even more and change the way the collar is sewn, making it less of a collar and more of a sash tie like this blouse from Banana Republic.

I would eventually like to make this blouse up in a silk, but for this 1st run will use this piece of poly voile I have in my stash and picked up for a song at JoAnn's

Please comment about your observations and impressions.

Am I trying to make 1 style into another completely?

Will the pattern in my poly voile confuse the issue or make for a sublime blouse?

Wonder Woman Accessories

2011-10-26T13:06:00.000-05:00

Wonder Woman Tiara and Cuffs by Williams Studio 2

Yesterday in the studio I completed a batch of Wonder Woman tiaras, and cuffs.

I am trying a new gold braid on these which folds over the edge.

It's quite tricky to apply but Chuck, in particular loves the finish.

Speaking of finishes...

Can you believe the finish on those cuffs? We send those out to be done by a professional and upon their return I apply the red stars.....very carefully.

So a lot of sewing and very little breathing was done - lol

I do love my job.

Wonder Woman Tiara and Cuffs by Williams Studio 2

If you are interested in owning a set of these beauties head over to my Etsy store. Normally I make these as ordered, but I have an extra set currently available for sale.

An unusual occasion to say the least.

Lynne's Etsy store

Fall Fabric Lovelies

2011-10-25T17:28:00.000-05:00

My beautiful yarn was not my only splurge this past week.

It all really started at The Cutting Edge Sale, where some very committed women were waiting out in the cold to enter the building....so not going to do that. I cannot even imagine what incredible fibers she would have to have on sale that would cause me to stand out in the wind for....I am trying...but....

Peg and I then bravely headed over to Jo-Anns where we found a very nice piece of linen. Yes 100% linen, yarn dyed in this marvelous cafe au lait color. We purchased enough for 2 shirts, one for her and one for me and we have plans on cutting them out and sewing them up together.

(It looks a little dark in this picture, but what's a girl to do, trying to photograph in the studio..it's touchy.)

That will be great fun, don't you think?

Do you sew much with others?

Lynne Williams for Williams Studio 2 - linen blouse sketch

This is the shirt I designed and sketched for my linen fabric. I will replace the darts at the front with tucks. Use pin tucks on the front insert and trim it with some vintage lace from my stash. A 3/4 length sleeve with a narrow cuff, and lots of little mother of pearl buttons for the front placket.

Yummy!...if I do say so myself, and since this is my blog I guess I can do that....

Currently I do not know what Peg's plans are for her half of the linen, but I will be sure to keep you posted.

The chocolate colored stuff alongside the linen is a medium wale corduroy and I have plans to make some straight leg jeans to work in. I am always a touch on the cold side so cozy pants will do just the trick this winter while I am in the studio sewing.

We did return to The Cutting Edge later in the day where we stocked up on small rotary cutting blades and I purchased some fine cotton batiste for another blouse. It is in white and I have plans to dye it using some Shibori technique.

Have you tried Shibori ?

Now did I need fabric?....certainly not, and I have been doing a fine job of attacking my stash this past year, but linen at JoAnns, a superfine cotton batiste, and some gorgeous yarn..simply irresistible.

Let's just hope I can get to these projects this year so that these gorgeous finds don't end up in my stash.

Knitting Smartie, or Knit off the pounds.

2011-10-24T15:40:00.001-05:00

Black Purl 1102 3rd st, Wausau WI.

On my recent shopping trip into Wausau I managed to stop by my favorite yarn shop The Black Purl.

My intention was to pick up a few hanks of Cascade 220 to knit myself another sweater vest for the FESA challenge.

This I figured was an affordable alternative for my next knitting project.

Knitting is not for the economically challenged.

If you have not been to The Black Purl I highly recommend it. The owner Beth is quite honestly brilliant. Her shop is an oasis of cozy color, rich textures, and a soothing ambiance. As usual several ladies were sitting around an old oak table in front of a sunny window knitting away while chatting with one another.

With good intentions I headed straight to where the Cascade was the last time I was in, and searched for a color that would fit in with my palette and ...well speak to me.

The Cascade was shockingly quiet and subdued...hmmm, well while I am here lets at least look and see what new gorgeous samples Beth has been knitting up...this, I can recognize now, was my first mis-step. Her samples are all on sale, I started trying them on(the 2nd mis-step), and then it happened, while shaking my arm out of a beautiful deep purple sweater I caught sight of this yarn by Louisa Harding

It was just the color I was looking for to fit in with my fall palette

Merletto yarn by Louisa Harding color #17 True

but not suitable for my fitted sweater vest.

I did just happen to have the directions for the Smartie sweater by Kim Hargreaves with me ( maybe this was my first mis-step...) the gauge would work, although with the texture of yarn I would forgo the window pane texture as knit in the pattern...simple enough to eliminate.

Smartie sweater by Kim Hargreaves / pattern in Rowan #19

I drove home full of recriminations...it's over an hour on a cold and blustery day. Upon entering the house with my purchases, my wonderful husbands says " Did you find something lovely for yourself?"

and I responded " Why...yes, yes I did....a few things"

Knitting up Smartie for Lynne Williams

I have been knitting ever since. Here is my left front, which I started with instead of the back so I could confirm the shaping and lengths. Chuck likes the texture that the moss stitch creates at the hem. and I love the vent detail at the princess seam and the luster of this yarn.

Have you been distracted by the title of my post..." Knit off the pounds" ?

I do not mean to suggest that this sweater will make me look thinner, but I have noted a huge benefit to knitting in the evenings...I snack less, in fact not at all. Evenings are typically my downfall where my diet is concerned, the longer I watch television the more I want to snack, but when I am knitting I am not thinking about snacking, so I now figure that my yarn is a very cost effective diet aid. Less expensive then a trainer or diet foods, and therapy.

After all for the cost of 12 skeins of yarns I am lowering my stress and calorie intake.

That's a win, win in my book:D

To see some of Black Purls patterns go here

For my fans of vintage clothing, check out the patterns using this yarn

Have you knit anything with Merletto?

Do you use knitting, crocheting or hand work as a diet aid?

Have you been to the Black Purl?

Do tell:)

On The Go Tote Class Teaser

2011-10-22T11:01:00.003-05:00

On the Go Tote adapted by Lynne Williams

The On The Go Tote Class begins on Saturday Nov 5th at Nicolet.

It runs for 3 Saturdays in a row from 10am - 3pm The class registration # is 20702

Whiligig Designs

This tote pattern is by Whiligig Designs and can be purchased at The Cutting Edge.

Cottage Creek Quilts designed by Pam Puyleart

This pattern by Cottage Creek quilts can also be purchased at The Cutting Edge.

It is meant to be a wall hanging, but ultimately it was the artwork that intrigued me, and I used it to jazz up my tote.

I used this project as a tool for practicing my free motion stitching, which I do very little of. Because the individual units are small it is easy to get creative and practice. In class of course you are welcome to sew the tote up without embellishment as the pattern dictates....but what an opportunity to play. I used a variety of techniques from templates to wild abandon:D

I would really encourage you to use this class as an opportunity to learn/practice this skill

This tote does require a lot of yardage(9 yds), so I recommend digging into your stash or finding a great deal on a print that you love. Additionally you can reduce the amount of yardage by sewing it up in a heavier weight fabric, such as a denim, a twill, or a medium weight upholstery fabric. This saves yardage because the interior pockets when done in a quilting cotton are doubled up. If you used a heavier fabric that is not necessary.

In addition to the design changes :

I added a zipper closure

Stabilizing the tote - the pattern calls for using foam core , I simplified this step and in class you can choose between the options.

This tote is incredibly useful for class and if you like taking sewing classes you can just about get your entire sewing room in this tote....minus your machine and project.

It holds all of my cutting boards, rulers, scissors, threads, tapes, instructions, pin cushion, chalk wheels, dressmakers carbon etc.

When I am doing a lot of teaching I simply hang the tote on the back of a chair in my studio and work out of it, so that I am not loading and un-loading it.

That makes me think that if you have a limited amount of sewing space..this tote might be ideal for regular storage.

I hope you will join me for sewing this very useful tote, learning some new techniques and meeting other sewing enthusiasts:)

A note to my sewing cafe students: If you would like to sew on Saturday but are not interested in sewing the tote, please join us anyway. As usual if you are attending Fridays class then you can leave your equipment set up in class on Friday and simply return Saturday morning for another full day of sewing.

Fall Pantaloons

2011-10-19T07:26:00.000-05:00

Williams Studio 2 Fall Pajama Pantaloon's

The most comfortable pajama pants I have ever worn:)

Last week Peg sewed these up for me so we could check my computer pattern skills....learning the ropes, you know?

I have had this homespun cotton flannel for years....literally.

I made this pair a little longer for the the cooler weather, but they still have that super comfortable smocking at the waist, and I like how the ruffles help the hem keep their shape.

Peg is now making a pair for herself, can't wait to find out if she likes them as much as I.

If you would like to make yourself a pair, There is a tutorial so you can do that.

With the new format you can just do a picture search to find the posts.. or type Pajama Pantaloon in the search box at the upper right hand side of your screen.

They are a great beginner project.

They would make a great gift as well....don't you think?

Today in the studio I altered a pattern for a client who is in need of a dress coat....fur and taffeta...yummy

Answered inquiry's about the Wonder Woman costume.

Thought a lot about the Jasmine blouse muslin....I will post more about that later.

Graded a pattern and prepared some patterns to offer as downloads.

Do you download patterns? It's so convenient right?

Versatile Blog Award

2011-10-18T09:31:00.000-05:00

This morning while doing a quick check in through my blog roll. I was happy to see that Biblioblog received this Versatile Blogger Award, because I do so enjoy hearing about her sewing projects and travels. We have a few things in common....A love of sewing, A love of horses, we both have done some teaching( well she has done a lot of it, actually) and we both like to travel (she just actually gets to do some)

Then.....drum roll please.....she passed this award onto me, describing me as energetic, which I generally call frenetic, but energetic is so much nicer..... But that is Mary for you...Nice.

Thanks Mary, really I am quite touched this is my first award, and it's pretty special.

Along with the tag come certain rules:

Thank the person who gave you the award and link back to them in your post; - Thank you Mary for thinking of me. If you want to see some lovely travel pictures, and garments go to Biblioblog

Share seven things about yourself on your blog;

working together on the replica 66 batman project

My husband and I are both self-employed "artists" Well he is really the artist, a sculptor actually who does the most amazing work. He does product sculpture for Disney, Lenox, Electric Tiki, etc. which means people hire him to create 3 dimensional versions of their character art. In addition to this he does Figurative Fine Art pieces. He has incredible skill and a great sense of humor. We have been married 11 years.

I am one of Jehovah's Witnesses, and was baptized 10 years ago. It's not something I discuss much on my blog, seeing as how it's primarily about my passion for sewing. So I am out in the Ministry every Monday, conducting Bible studies with interested and interesting people.

I don't know how this happened, but she is amazing!

I have a beautiful daughter now 22 and living in Australia, having an adventure to remember. This picture was taken on her return from Culinary School in New York.

Extreme sewing by Lynne Williams for Honey I blew up the Kids

Before moving to Wisconsin I had a business creating costumes for the theatre and film industry in Calif. I loved it, and I miss it still. I had the good fortune to work with Harry Blackstone Jr. and on films such as Honey I Blew up the kids and Bill and Ted's Excellent adventure. Working side by side with other creatives is addictive and inspirational on many levels.

Dior's Atelier and staff

I often fantasize about moving to Europe and working in a atelier, becoming a mixologist, having a hobby farm, and being able to eat anything I want without gaining a pound or clogging an artery

April in Wisconsin

I am cold most of the time and it makes me cranky! and yet my husband still loves me and can laugh together about how this California girl ended up living in a place that has long winters and cool summers.

Winter Formal 77-78. Vogue pattern

I am never truly satisfied with anything I do...seriously it's pretty nuts. If I was not so compelled to finish things, nothing would make it on my back, or to my clients. When I was younger I just thought I was to lazy to get it right, and of course as I have gotten older my skills have improved, and I have a history of garments to look back upon and think " Why weren't you happy with that"? So I remind myself of this in the middle of every project.

Pass this award along to recently discovered blogs

Handmade by Carolyn An accomplished seamstress( I hate that word) let's say....dressmaker living in Australia. I like her style, her photos of " I want to go to there" places, and she uses more words then me....even - lol She is my fair haired muse.
JillybeJoyful - Jill's blogs is self described as: " Its about exploring and sharing my creative adventures(mostly sewing)- those activities that sometimes obsess, usually inspire, occasionally frustrate and always provide a delightful maze to wander through." I really cannot improve on that! She's fun, she sews like a fiend, and she lives where I was brought into the world....Northern Calif. I enjoy following her sewing adventures, she is honest, and prolific, and a fine stitcher, 3 admirable qualities.
Rosy at Sewingadicta Retro style on location in Spain....honestly what is not to love about that? Her blog is bilingual, very cool, she knits as well and is straight forward fun. Some people know how to live well.....I am taking lessons.

Thanks again Mary for the award and mention.

Change can be exciting!

2011-10-15T11:56:00.000-05:00

While Edna Mode my alter ego is busy at work in the studio today I have rolled up my sleeves to do some much needed housework...Oh Boy:).....my favorite thing to do on a Saturday.

I must be making progress though because most of my nail polish is now removed.

After the kitchen was complete, I convinced myself that I needed a coffee break, and could maybe check some of the blogs I follow. When what to my wondering eyes should appear but a new option for Blogger which i think is pretty dear.

Most of you know how much I adore Pinterest, and this new format reminds me a lot of that.

I love the visual aspect of it and I think it will be easier for my small but varied audience to find older posts that might interest them.

Now I know change can be difficult and even a bit dis-heartening, after all it does take some additional effort to learn a new format or skill. My hope though is that you will like the changes and will quickly get used to the new format.

You will notice a tool bar above the picture gallery which will allow you to change the format to any version you prefer. So if you like the classic version, just click on classic and your familiar friend will be there.

Don't be afraid to move your mouse around and click to your hearts desire.

Please leave me comments and let me know what your thoughts are on this new look.

Caped Crime Fighter - Cape Sewing Tutorial

2011-10-13T14:27:00.001-05:00

Okay Bat fans are you ready to sew?

Does your machine have a new size 10 sharp needle in it?

Has the bobbin area been cleaned out recently, within the last 24 hours?

If not make sure to do this and check your tension on a sample piece of cape fabric before preceding. Satin is very unforgiving and uneven tension will result in puckered seams. Additionally fluff in your bobbin area will get drawn up by your thread, again resulting in uneven tension.

This tutorial is not meant to replace the directions that came with your WS1002 pattern, but to compliment them with additional tips.

To begin let's discuss why we have carefully marked our seam allowances. In the image above you have a piece of cape satin. The selvage/lengthwise grain edge is on the right, and the chalked line is on the true bias, or 45 degree angle from the selvage. Seams that are sewn on the bias or even off grain will want to stretch as you sew the seam.

Here I am stretching that seam. I highly recommend you try this on a sample if you are unfamiliar with this attribute. When you sew an off grain seam and do not stretch the seam moderately as you are sewing it, the fabric will stretch out around the seam creating the appearance of a short seam with folds of fabric cascading from it.

The center back seam is on the straight of grain, but the side seams of the cape fall off the grain. Pin the seam as shown above being careful to pin through your marked stitching line. Place the pins so that you can remove easily as you approach them to sew. Sew your seam with a short 2. stitch length and apply a moderate amount of stretch as you sew by holding the fabric in front of and behind the foot and creating tension, while still allowing the fabric to feed normally. You will notice that your seam allowance narrows as you apply tension, this is why we marked our stitch line to prevent you from making your seam allowances to deep thus making the cape smaller.

Once you have your cape and cape lining sewn together along the front edge, you need to anchor the lining seams to the cape seams. This inhibits the cape from bagging out between the layers.

On Adams original cape you will occasionally notice some hard pressed wrinkles around the hem.

Capes are not generally sewn together at the hem due to this problem which was minimized on his cape by this anchoring technique.

The picture above shows the two seam allowances, one from the cape, and one from the lining being tacked together as the directions indicates.

Be sure to follow the directions (step 5)as to placement of these tacks.

Step 8 instructs you to pin your prepared neck binding to your neckline and press it so that it curves to fit. Make sure your binding lays nice and flat.

It will do this because you have cut it on the bias which allows it to follow a curve.

This same neck binding cut on the straight of grain would not be able to do this.

Once your neckline is under stitched and pinned to the wrong side you Prick Stitch the binding to the cape along the folded edge. A prick stitch is accomplished by sewing from the outside of the cape. It is done just like a back stitch, but with the back stitch being very small on the top edge. In the picture above you can see a sample being sewn using white thread. To see a video of the prick stitch being sewn click here

Your finished neckline will look something like this. Notice the tiny stitches on the outside and the longer stitches along the binding edge.
This stitch takes some practice to get even, but that is what you trying to achieve, consistently even stitches.

The next few steps should be self explanatory, so let's move onto the infamous hem.

Your hems should now all be fused with the bias tape and the seam allowances cut back to match the shape of the hemline as seen on the lower side of the picture above. Now that your seam allowances are all cut back carefully pin the hems together matching the cut edges. With a short 2. stitch length straight stitch the hems together 1/8" from the edge.

To set up the sewing machine for this final step you will thread 2 black spools through your needle. Most machines have 2 thread spindles for this purpose. Adjust your stitch width until your finished zig-zag stitch is 3/16" wide. Shorten your stitch length so that it makes a nice tight stitch a little longer then a standard buttonhole stitch.
Again always make a sample first to check your results.
Position your foot as seen above when you sew your zig zag so that the right edge of the stitch just falls off the edge of the fabric, wrapping the stitch around the matched cut edges.
After all of this you will have some fraying which extends beyond the sewn edge, this can be trimmed back closely and will, for the most part eventually wear away.
The original cape was hemmed in the exact same manner.

Now pat yourself on the back for a job well done, or drink a nice glass of wine, if you haven't started already and get ready to make a cowl:)

Please feel free to leave any additional questions you may have, by commenting on the post. If you subscribe to the post, you will then receive the follow up questions and answers:) Additionally it lets me know if the the information has been helpful to you:)

Enter the Threads Ultimate Sewing Challenge Now! - Threads

2011-10-07T18:56:00.000-05:00

Enter the Threads Ultimate Sewing Challenge Now! - Threads

Well Ladies here is an opportunity indeed. You can enter to win a Bernina 330 sewing machine and tote by submitting a party ensemble by Nov 4th. This party garment can be something you already have in your closet, as long as it has not been published previously. The contest does require that it have 3-4 items in the ensemble, which means you might need to make glove, jewlery, a hat, purse, or some other clever accessory. Now I can think of a few of my students who have garments that would qualify for this contest...lets see who takes the bait? Of course there is still time to create something new and exciting prior to the deadline as well.

Spring 2012 Fashion - Ralph Lauren

2011-10-04T09:18:00.001-05:00

Thanks to Quality Time for introducing me to Ralph Lauren's 2012 Spring line.

I simply had to show it here because this Ladies is how to do menswear for women.

Genius!

Here I am plugging away at my fall fashions and then this inspiration comes and now all I want to do is start sewing for spring. What motivation.

Let me know your thoughts:

Love or hate the color palette?

Favorite item or ensemble?

Would you make any of these pieces?

Would you buy any of them?

Fall Challenge - Pumpkin vest

2011-10-01T11:26:00.000-05:00

Lynne Williams Pumpkin Plaid Vest from Folkwear 222

My apologies for this picture being out of focus....I was a little to excited about it to wait for better pictures. Chuck and I have a photo shoot planned for later today, but he has a tight deadline on a sculpt....so I thought what the heck.

The Folkwear pattern this vest started with has 3 versions and I plan on making the double breasted version as well. Although this vest is on the bias I added the darts to get a closer fit, you might not need to do this in a lighter weight wool, but this lightly felted wool needed the additional shaping.

The buttons are vintage plastic made to look like a traditional leather button. Pretty cute I thought and the right accent for this vest.

Lynne Williams for Williams Studio 2

Looking forward to wearing this baby as it is really cooling down here and I think vests will make a great layer for me in and out of the studio.

I have always had a passion for menswear as well so its a win, win.

The Lining is a rayon Ambiance from my stash.

The back belt is a beautiful piece of brown leather, left over from some outrageous show chaps I made several years ago.

Looking forward to my next item for the challenge which will be the Jasmine blouse by Colette Patterns.

Need to muslin that and I am planning on lengthening the sleeve.

I just don't think that above the elbow look is good for my age group.

This pattern due to its being cut on the bias requires 3 yards....yikes, this will limit my fabric choices. I have some beautiful silks, but I am afraid not enough yardage on any of them....hmmm

Do you like mens wear on women?

What color shirt would you wear with this vest?

Dare I enter it into the Stitched in Color Contest?

<div align="center"><a href="http://www.stitchedincolor.com/p/celebrate-color.html" title="Celebrate Color"><img

Replica Robin Mask

2011-09-28T10:57:00.000-05:00

Boy Wonder mask offered by Lynne Williams - Williams Studio 2

I just listed 2 of these Replica Robin masks on my Etsy store.

These masks are made using the same pattern and fabric that Burt Ward approved and that used to sell on his official fan website. They are made from a polyester fabric, lined with a satin, and interfaced. They are adjustable to fit, just like the original, with elastic and a hook & eye closure.

Henchman mask offered by Lynne Williams - Williams Studio 2

Of course you can wear them with your Robin costume, but they also work nicely as a henchmen accessory.

Fall Color

2011-09-25T16:41:00.000-05:00

One week ago I posted a fall wardrobe picture, with little fall color... But what a difference a week can make in the North Woods. So even though this outfit is not part of this years fall sewing challenge I had to post a picture to show you our developing fall color.

I am not a participant in the Self Stitched September Challenge although I applaud the efforts of the many women who are. I just might be able to pull off the goal of wearing a self stitched item for everyday in September...a worthy goal, but the idea of having to post all those pictures terrifies me. That's a lot of work.

This outfit is self stitched though.

The dress is a Vogue easy options #8233(now out of print apparently). made from a bargain buy at JoAnns.

My mom was with me on that day and insisted I purchase this fabric for myself. My mother has never been wrong about these things, so I have learned to listen to her prodding.

The jacket is by a favorite instructor of mine, Claire Shaeffer and is offered through Vogue, # 8333

A few years ago I taught a tailored jacket class and this was my sample. Its made from a wool crepe. My only frustration with this jacket is the hair canvas I used for interfacing was stiffer then it should be. I sold all of the appropriate weight to the students and tried to make do.....never do that when you are investing the time it requires to hand tailor a jacket.

That's my tip for the day - lol

Are you enjoying your Fall weather, or for my friends and family on the other side of our fair planet...your spring weather?

What is your favorite season to sew for?

Caped Crime Fighter Cape - Cutting and Marking

2011-09-24T17:51:00.002-05:00

Your replica Batman cape should now be altered and ready for cutting.

Before we begin...
We need to discuss that satin can be directional meaning the color will appear darker in one direction over the opposing direction....say what?

To demonstrate....mark one cut end of you satin "top"

Notice that when I flip one around how it catches more light then the other. This property of satin if not addressed can make your garment look like it has been sewn with two different colors. It is sometimes difficult to see in small pieces, tragic when seen in larger sections. I always advise avoiding the possibility altogether by careful cutting.

To begin cut or tear your satin into 4 lengths of 60" each. Label the top of each length as you proceed to insure that your satin is running in the same direction for all of your pattern pieces.
To help conserve fabric you will be placing the pattern pieces in opposing directions as the lay out shows. You will use one direction for your "face" or outer layer, and the other direction for your lining layer.
Being careful that you end up with 2 front , 2 front linings, 2 back and 2 back linings.

Lay out both your cape front and back as the pattern instructs, but you will only be able to get one set out, the 2nd set will be cut from your other 2 lengths.

With dressmakers carbon mark your seam allowances and scallops on the wrong side of all 4 pieces.

Additionally you will need to mark your snap location with tailor tacks.
I like to use light blue thread for the male snaps and pink thread for the female snaps.

You can now cut your pieces along the cutting lines except for the scallop hem.
For this I leave a generous edge around until I have fused the bias tape along the scallop.
Be sure to label your cut pieces by placing a low tack masking tape on the wrong side of the fabric, to insure you do not confuse your lining pieces with your face/outer pieces.

Repeat this with the other 2 lengths, laying the pattern pieces in the opposite direction of the first set.
Mark your seam allowances again with dressmakers carbon, tailor tack your snap placement and label each piece.

The fusible bias tape used to control the seams.

Next to insure that our front edge stays crisp and hangs correctly and that the scallops in the hem retain their proper shape we will fuse a wonderful product called Design Plus bias fusible along our stitch lines in critical sections.

You will iron this tape centering it over your stitch line down the center front on the face/outer side only.

You will than iron the tape along the inside edge of your marked hem.
If you are using a taffeta like satin you may only need to do this on your face/outer side. If you are using a silk satin or light weight poly satin you will want to fuse both your face/outer and lining hems.
I highly recommend you do a test scallop on your fabric to determine what will be required.

Leaving the excess fabric makes the hem more stable and less likely to change shape as you press.
Additionally you can keep the pattern pinned to the fabric just above the marked line. The tissue will help it retain its shape.
Once you have it fused your bias tape on you can trim off the excess fabric right along the edge of the bias tape. Because this tape is cut on the bias it forms around the curves beautifully as you press it and will now stabilize the scallop shape for the finished hem technique.

In the next installment we will sew the cape and master that tricky hem.

Please let me know if you have any additional questions.

Should I start a Flickr group so you can post pictures of your progress or completed items?

Fall Sew Along - Moss skirt complete

2011-09-18T13:59:00.000-05:00

Yepper's

This looks like fall, at least my outfit does. Here in Wisconsin it feels like fall and it certainly smells like fall, but we are just beginning to see some color. I find this encouraging because I still have so much fall sewing to do that it will be fun to see the garments develop as the color does.

It started to rain on us a bit as Chuck was taking these pictures before I headed off to the Kingdom Hall for the Sunday talk.

A reminder of my fall inspiration.

I need to find some of the blue in this picture in a blouse weight....I really need some blouses!

The silk blouse I am wearing was from this vintage Vogue pattern, which was not vintage when purchased in the 80's..sigh.

The apricot silk was also purchased in the 80's from International Silks and Woolens a favorite haunt of mine from my days in California.

Both were tenderly packed and brought to Wisconsin. I did not originally purchase the silk for this pattern specifically, but kept saving it for "just the right thing" and to think all the time I had them both-lol. I made the blouse a year of two ago, and I do love it with this skirt. I have plans to make the short sleeve version on this pattern as well from a black silk jacquard by Ralph Lauren...hope I can accomplish this before the pattern is considered an antique!

This is my husbands favorite shot, so I had to include it.

The belt is leather, another item I have had since the early 80's

The shoes were a "find" on Pinterest, which led to a purchase at

Nine West

For my next Fall item I have started the pumpkin wool vest and I would like to make another vest from this skirt fabric as well, I have just enough left over...how thrilling. But blouses..yes blouses.

Are you drawn to certain weights of fabrics over others? I am thinking I must be, because I have a serious lack of blouse weight fabrics in my stash....hmm, yet I can always find something to make a jacket from:)

What is your favorite item to make?

dresses?
tops?
pants?
jackets?
skirts?
Home decor?

Caped Crime Fighter - Cape Alterations

2011-09-17T13:31:00.003-05:00

Look familiar Bat Fans?

Here we have a replica Batman cape from the Iconic 66' Batman t.v. show starring Adam West. This cape is made from a Poly Satin, is self lined and made from Williams Studio 2 Caped Crime Fighter Pattern...from yours truly:)

As you can see the cape is not particularly full and the pattern fits a 40- 42" chest. If you are larger then this you will want to alter the pattern to fit your larger chest size.

Today I will show you how to accomplish this.

This shows the back of the cape in the Poly Satin.

The cape length is 51-3/4" from the back neckline to the end of the center point, which should just graze the top of your boot in the back. Adam was 6'2 and slim of build. If you are more barrel chested but the same height you might require more length.
See Why at Fashion Incubator

The width around the cape below the shoulder is 52"

Measure around your chest and arms to get a width measurement .

To alter your pattern you will need:

WS1002 Caped Crime Fighter Pattern
Tape measure
Tape - My preferred tape is soft cloth tape as found in the pharmacy/bandage section. It does not tear the tissue, remains flexible, and can be removed if needed.
Pens - Blue and Red
Rulers - A fashion ruler if you have one is helpful
Paper/tissue - golden threads, newsprint, tissue,
Your personal measurements - width and center back length

To begin remove your cape front and back pattern pieces from the tissue. You do not want to cut out on the line, but just around the pattern pieces. Press them to remove any folds and wrinkles with a dry iron.

Now I am afraid we need to do some math...

Fortunately for us I have a client I am currently making a cape for and so we will use his measurements as an example, but you will of course need to adjust accordingly.

My clients chest/arm measurement is 62" which means we need to add 10" in width and we need to make it 1/2" longer.

To maintain the correct look of the cape you need to add evenly around slashing and spreading through the center of each hem scallop.

Mark a line(indicated by the blue vertical lines above) that begins at the mid point of each scallop and extends up through the shoulder line.

One of these lines will run along the dotted stitch line at the side seam.

Mark another line(shown in red) perpendicular to the grain line(short black line) on the pattern.

Repeat this for both front and back pattern pieces.

Let's now determine how to divide the amount we need to add to our circumference.

Our pattern is only half of the garment, so begin by dividing the total amount required in half. Since I am adding 10", half of that is 5"

Half of the pattern has 5 hem scallops and so I divide my 5" by 5.

This means I need to add or spread each vertical line by 1"

The scallop along the side seam falls into the center, so we will add 1/2 the total between the 2 side seams. For me this means 1/2" along each side seam, adding 1" total.

Still with me.....Cut narrow strips of your extra paper. I had some Golden Threads in the studio so I cut narrow strips that were slightly longer then the length of the pattern.

Cut your pattern along one of your blue vertical lines, tape a narrow strip of extra paper along one edge.

Extend your Red line across the strip and place a cross mark the amount you need to spread. That is 1" for me. Tape your pattern back together maintaining the correct spread width along the length and being very careful that your red line remains straight as well. Once you have taped the front, turn the pattern over and place tape along the back of the pattern as well. Repeat this step for the 4 blue lines that run through the body of the pattern.

Your shoulder line will be all a jumble now, so you need to redraw it, or blend it.

This is where a fashion ruler can come in handy, it has a nice gentle curve on it for pattern drafting.

Next we need to lengthen or shorten our cape. If you are lengthening you will cut along your red line and spread it as you did the others the desired amount. For my cape that was 1/2".

To shorten draw another line above your red line the amount you need to shorten the cape. Now fold the red line up to the new line and tape securely.

Once the length is adjusted we can finish spreading our pattern by cutting along the side seam stitch line, starting at the bottom and cutting up to the shoulder curve point. Do not cut through the pattern here, but leave a hinge so that you can spread the seam open the desired amount. That is 1/2" for me, or half of the total amount you did on the other spreads.

This is about what your finished pattern piece will look like when you are done.

Congratulations on altering your cape pattern. If you have any questions please feel free to ask and I will do my best to answer them for you promptly.

Now that you pattern is ready I highly recommend you cut it out and sew it up in muslin or waste cotton so that you can make sure the width and length are correct for you. You do not need to sew up the lining, a single layer should give you a good idea of the over all fit. Remember the front of the cape does not overlap at the chest.

The Little Black Dress - A sewing class at Nicolet

2011-09-16T18:04:00.000-05:00

We have an upcoming sewing class which begins on Oct 1st and runs every Saturday through Oct 22. It features a little black dress of your choice. So although this class has a theme I encourage everyone to find a style and fabric that excites them. I will be there to help with achieving the perfect fit, and demystifying working with linings, zippers, interlinings, and pattern alterations.

So what is your perfect dress and where does it need to take you?

This is the Iconic Black Dress from "Breakfast at Tiffany's" worn by Audrey Hepburn

Imagine this dress in a cocktail length with that beautiful back detail. In a nice wool it could be worn to work with a sweater or blazer and then out to dinner with diamonds and heels.

The little black dress or lbd as it is commonly referred to is considered a wardrobe essential. Generally it has simple classic lines which can be easily accessorized.

To be truly useful it must be able to go from day to evening.

Dramatic necklines are always good!

It need not be black at all, some prefer a deep brown, or a navy blue. You can choose a dark neutral that works well with your coloring and existing wardrobe.

Vogue is offering some intriguing possibilities...

Vogue 8685 - Lots of different possibilities here.

This is an " Easy Options" dress and requires a moderate stretch knit.

Vogue 1192 - This is an Anne Klein Design.

The ruching is always good in hiding a tummy.

It's lined and requires a woven fabric. The suggested fabrics are a silk crepe or heavy Georgette. I would also add a wool crepe, or lightweight suiting.

Vogue 8687 - This vintage vogue pattern comes with a beautiful coat and the suggested fabrics are: Crepe, Shantung, Linen or Faille.

I found these options on McCall's

McCall's 5927 - The pockets are a nice option.

This dress is lined and the pattern includes different bust cup sizes:)

The suggested fabrics are: Linen, Lace, wool suiting and crepe.

McCall's 6032 - For those who like comfort and easy care.

This pattern requires a stretch knit, is labeled " easy" and is sized up to W24.

McCall's 6074 - Super quick and comfy.

This dress would make up nicely in a slinky or jersey and does require a moderate stretch knit.

I made this dress this summer in a navy slinky, in the Maxi length and its a great basic!

This is what I found just at Vogue and McCall's but be sure to check out:

Simplicity .

Colettes,

and

Hot Patterns

Burda

let's not forget vintage

EvaDress Patterns

Are you planning on joining the fun?

Let me know what pattern you have chosen, and if you would like help finding the right fabric.

I am looking forward to sewing with you in Oct.

Pajama Pantaloon - Smocked Waist Tutorial

2011-09-10T13:48:00.001-05:00

Today we will complete our Pajama Pantaloons by smocking the waistband and adding belt loops

We begin by finishing the top edge of our pantaloons using a 1/4" rolled hem.

At your Pantaloon waist fold your hem to the wrong side 1/4" and press.

Fold over again and stitch along the left edge.

To create the smocking we will wind a bobbin with the elastic thread.

Watch your thread as you wind the bobbin to make sure it doesn't "pop out" on you. You want the thread under tension but the degree of tension isn't critical.

Once your bobbin is wound, thread the machine with your all purpose thread that matches through the needle and place the elastic thread bobbin....well in your bobbin case:)

We will now sew 4 rows of smocking starting at the waist hem edge and building rows to the left.

Sew the first row 1/2" from the edge and each row after that same distance apart. My Bernina has this handy seam guide which can attach to the back of all of their feet. Hold the fabric in front of the needle with some tension so the fabric lays smooth for you as you sew.

Next we will make our belt loops.

To begin cut a strip of fabric 1-1/8" x 25" long on the lengthwise grain line.

Press this strip in half along the long side, and then lay open flat on the ironing board. The crease you just made is a reference point for the next step.

Press the long cut edges into the center crease mark.

Press again in half so the cut edges are neatly folded into the center.

Edge stitch the strip along both long edges.

Cut you strip into 8 - 3"long pieces.

Mark the belt loop placement on your smocked waistband with pins.

2 - 1" on either side of the Center Back seam

2 - 2" on either side of the Center Front seam.

1 on each front waist - 1" in front of each side seams.

1 on each side of the back waist between the center back and side seam.

With right sides facing sew the loops across the short end 1/4" from edge.

Flip the belt loops up into position turn under the short end 1/4" and stitch across the top to secure. I lined mine up with the top edge of the smocking.

Congratulations!! Your Pajama Pantaloons are ready to snuggle in:)

I am loving mine, the waistband is so comfortable and they look much better then any of my comfy knit ones. I will certainly be making a version for fall in a homespun I have in the stash.

I hope you have enjoyed makings yours. Please feel free to leave a comment and tell us where we can see your completed Pantaloons.

Previous posts are linked below

Pajama Party Sew Along

Pajama Pantaloon - Gather tools and supplies

Pajama Pantaloons Tutorial - Lets begin

Pajama Pantaloons tutorial - cutting ruffles

Pajama Pantaloon tutorial - sewing ruffles

Pajama Pantaloon tutorial - french seams etc.

Fall Wardrobe - Moss Wool Skirt in progress

2011-09-08T17:49:00.000-05:00

Today I am grateful for being able to sew on my Fall Challenge skirt.

Yesterday our water heater died a horrible death, bleeding out onto my studio floor. Can you say inconvenient?

I had just completed a Wonder Woman Tiara for a client and decided to finish up the day by working on my skirt, when I noticed this dark patch in front of my ironing table...hmm that's odd I thought....which quickly turned into an expensive and frantic afternoon and evening...sigh.

So yes, I am very grateful for a quiet day of personal sewing:)

Today's sewing went well.

All of the elements are sewn and most of them together....that's my waistband hanging vertically which needs to be basted to the skirt for another fitting.

The hem sections are cut on the bias faced with Ambiance lining and under stitched. It has two darts on the front of the skirt and four on the back with an invisible zipper placed at the center back seam. The waistband will lap once attached.

In thinking through the process I was a little concerned about the bulk which would be created by all of the hem elements, as well as how and where the lining would end. Inspiration hit upon sewing the longest layer to the lining and sewing the rest to the skirt. This adds weight to both sections and will provide a nice clean finish for the edges and some short swing tacks will keep the lining and skirt in proper alignment.

I am quite pleased with the days sewing.

Now I am trying to adjust to my new progressive lens which I picked up during lunch today. Peg was kind enough to drive me in...a good thing, because I still feel a bit like a drunken sailor...well maybe not as fun as that, but a kind of moving ship thing....

What did you sew today?

What did you dream about sewing today?

Do you have bi-focals or progressive?

Vintage Sewing Treasures

2011-09-06T08:58:00.000-05:00

Recently I went Jumble shopping ( as our British friends would say) with a student who had found a pink sewing machine by Stradivarius. Really! That milky 50's pink.

But more on that later.

What I found were the little gems above.

The star of the show is really that little travel iron which looks as if it has never been used and came in a matching zippered vinyl carry case. I purchased this for my husband:)

Really I did....he will use it for making bat cowls, pressing the ears and seams.

Obviously this would make a great travel iron for sewing class and I understand that they are in demand with people who like to laminate.

Do you know any other uses?

In the green case, I can never resist that case..is one of the best buttonhole makers ever put on the market. It's by singer and uses cams and a straight stitch machine. Don't despair if you don't own a old singer as it can be used on just about any machine. ( just be careful that you pick up a straight shank, and not the slant, unless of course you have a Singer slant needle) One of the advantages to this buttonholer (are you aware this is not a word...who knew) is that it can handle thick fabrics and scoffs at bulky edges. It does have some size limitations because you are using cams, not dialing in the length, but there is a great assortment of cams to search for.

The 3rd item is my little press mitt, in the original (battered) box. This is one of those pressing aids I have wanted for quite a while, thought about making one...never did and would generally substitute with my bare hand...honestly or maybe a wad of fabric from the muslin bin...Shocking I know, but now I have the real deal, it was a bit musty, but some Fabreeze took care of that and now its ready to work.

Now back to that Stradivarius....

My student was looking for a 2nd machine, Okay in reality she saw the pink machine and thought "Lynne says it always good to have a 2nd machine so maybe I should buy this pink one" lol

You know you have done that too:)

I like to recommend the old solid metal dependable and simple sewing machines from the past. No electronics to fry, super heavy, with a nice deep throat which makes them great for free motion by the way and affordable. I have a 401 slant needle in the studio that is Peg's (my sewing side kick) machine of choice.

They feed better generally then the new entry level machines you find on the market today. They make great first machines as well.

I will try to get a picture of the Stradivarius when it returns from the repair man who is doing a clean and oil on it. It will make you swoon.

I would like to dedicate this post to Jillybe who provided the inspiration for this vintage post. You can see her favorite vintage sewing notion on her blog post.

Happy sewing everyone.

Do you have an old dependable machine in your sewing room?

Was it passed down to you?

Fall Wardrobe - Moss Wool skirt

2011-09-04T18:32:00.000-05:00

Remember this dress from the Mad Men challange?

And remember this moss wool, and skirt inspiration that I want to make for fall?

Now that I have spent the necessesary time and effort to fit the dress, I can create my skirt using the skirt from the dress pattern.

The changes I will need to make are:

Style changes :

Narrow the skirt towards the hemline, so it creates a little more of a pencil skirt, but not to much because this can quickly add up to me looking hippy and drawing attention to the fact that my legs are less then elegantly long.
Create the hem detail

Pattern changes:

Create a waistband
Adjust the ease at the waist appropriate for a skirt. Did you know that dresses require 1.5" of ease at the waist where a skirt only requires 3/4"? So I need to lose 3/4" of ease.

I began with the pattern changes. Trimming a fat 1/8" off of each side seam takes care of the additional ease. Then tapering that down to 1/2" at the hem, which I am hoping will provide a hint of my pencil look, but the muslin will let me know if I am correct about that or not.

The hem detail is next and for that I cut off 3" from the bottom of the skirt, carefully labeling so I don't get the front and back confused.

slashing and spreading to add fullness to 1/4 section of skirt hem band

It looks to me like the hem detail has a touch of the flounce to it, and so I make four cuts into each pattern piece, leaving a hinge where it joins the skirt and spreading the hemline. I spread each one 1/4" is all because I don't want a ruffle, just a bit of a flip.

Time for the muslin, which stitches up quickly. I grab my shoes and my husband, who is great help with judging proportions for me, slip into the skirt.....and decide....I was correct about the "pencil" amount, as well as the spread on the hem band..."and there was much rejoicing".

The length however need to come up a bit, to just below the knee which meant shortening the skirt by 1.5".

Now that, that is decided I can make my additional hem band pieces, as it has 3 layers of unequal width and length. I trace my hem band twice, layer them and cut them to pleasing shapes.

Nothing to it:)

Time to cut some wool. Surprisingly when I went to cut my fabric I discovered I did not have an appropriate length of lining that would suit. Although a little frustrated by the delay I will console myself with the thought that it simply means I must be effectively reducing my stash....don't you think?

In the meantime I will go paint my daughters bedroom, which will now be called the "Guest room"

Won't this skirt look great with this wonderful jacket I made a few years back(goodness back when my hair was long even) from a Vintage Vogue pattern and an Angora wool blend houndstooth I picked up at Ginnys Fine Fabrics.

Fall Essentials and Palette challenge Post 1

Additional fabric contenders for Fall Essentials and Palette challenge Post 2

Wonder Boy Trunk Tutorial

2011-09-03T13:59:00.005-05:00

Voila' Trunks fit for your helpful side kick.

Now lets learn the finer points of sewing them up.

Due to Chucks mighty hunting powers, we are fortunate enough to have some original cotton spring weave fabric which has been dyed to match the Pantone color in the

WS1002 Wonder Boy pattern

The original fabric was loomed on a 10" tube which eliminates all vertical seaming. Pretty neat:)

The trunk pattern has been drafted though for current standard widths, and you will want to follow the pattern directions for the layout. The pattern sits on the tubular yardage along one fold line and along the center back stitch line, thereby eliminating the unnecessary seam allowance.

The spring weave is quite thick when not stretched to its full potential and so I used pins to hold the tissue in place and then cut with scissors.

My rotary cutter just couldn't accommodate the bulk.

Mark your eyelet hole placement using Tailors tacks, or a light colored chalk pencil.

Once you have marked it remove the tissue carefully so the thread remains on your fabric. Separate the fabric layers and cut the thread in between leaving thread marks on both layers.

My Bernina provides a nice little stitched eyelet hole. Its #13 under the buttonhole stitches and uses the #1 foot.

Always stitch a sample on your fabric to check for tension issues.

If you do have tension issues consult the manual for your machine.

I have stitched my sample in a contrast color just so you can see what the stitch looks like. When I use matching thread it practically disappears.

Mine looks great, one of the things I like about my Bernina, rarely need to make tension adjustments:)

Leave thread tails when beginning and ending your stitch.

Pull tails to back and tie in a knot with the tails from that side.

Using a hole punch create a hole in the center of the stitching.

The original costume used a zig zag stitch to finish the seams. So let's talk a bit about how to properly use your zig zag stitch for this purpose.

You don't want your zig zag to curl the cut edge of your seam, so proper width and stitch placement is important to keep that from happening.

I can use the default the settings on my zig zag stitch which = 1.5m length and 3m width.

Release the tension between your foot and feed dogs to prevent undue stretching. Zig zag with the cut edge running along the inside edge of your foot, so that when the needle jumps over to the far right position it stitches just off of your fabric. This keeps the cut edge from curling under and creating a bulky rolled edge.

A note about the crotch seam.

You will notice when you place your front crotch seam to the back crotch seam that the back is longer.

Pin the seam along both ends and then stretch until even and pin in the center. This extra length in the back allows for a more comfortable seat coverage across the tush

Your stitched, zig zagged and edge stitch crotch seam.

Press your waistband and leg opening to the wrong side along the fold line indicated on the pattern.

Straight stitch leg casing 3/8" from fold, stretching a tad as you sew to insure the stitching will accommodate your upper leg circumference.

Straight stitch waist casing 7/8" from fold.

Run 1/4" elastic through the leg casing. Over lap short ends and stitch across to secure. Finish sewing casing.

These tiny trunks will actually stretch to fit a small male!

Run your shoelace through the waist casing and you are done. You now own a pair of authentic and accurate side kick trunks.

Now, to the Bat Cave...

Fall Wardrobe Sew Alongs - best get sewing

2011-09-02T10:34:00.001-05:00

Acorns aglow(Zsaj's photostream on flickr via Pinterest) my fall color inspiration

Now that I am fully committed to sewing for fall, who should provide more inspiration for me then Collete Patterns and Rhinestones and Telephones. Both of them are running fall sew alongs and you will find badge links to the right for both them.

The Fall Essential Sew Along has a Flickr group to join and Collette Patterns has a forum where the gals are posting palettes and inspiration like mad....and I mean like mad:) I am so impressed by the variety of lovely color choices and exciting inspiration and it will no doubt be fun to see some of it come to fruition. I do say some, because as we all know just because you dream of making a lush fall wardrobe it does not mean all of it has to get made this year or ever.

(this is an important reminder for myself to not get overwhelmed)

What really overwhelms me is how computer savy sewing bloggers are. A testament to a generation that has grown up with this handy tool, but it leaves me feeling a bit......old....there I said it...that's right old and possibly grasping for my youth by hanging out with all of these up and coming stitcher's, who know all about smart phones and tablets and apps....oh my.

Here is my first ever color palette created on Colourlovers where you can browse palettes created by others or make your own. I used the Acorns Aglow photo as my inspiration. If you have some time to play its a great little sandbox to expand your horizons in.

silk chiffon silk charmeuse kimono silk more silk charmeuse kimono silk

My wardrobe choices will be expanding on my previous fall wardrobe post but I will hopefully be adding some of these fabrics from my stash into the mix. Luscious right? So excited to get pattern drafting and sewing, so enough with the blogging and off to the pattern table.

Please stay tuned for more of the plan.

Hope everyone enjoys their weekend.

Pajama Pantaloons Sew Along - French Seams etc.

2011-08-20T07:10:00.000-05:00

Today we start assembling our Pajama pants. You should have your pieces cut out and your ruffles ruffled.

The first step is to mark the wrong side of my fabric so I don't get confused and end up with two right legs or something equally rediculous, two left legs. I identify the wrong side by placing small bits of masking tape to the wrong side of each pant leg.

Now that our pieces are labeled we will sew our inseam using a French Seam. Here we have a nice illustration of how and what a french seam looks like. Its somewhat clearer I hope then the pictures.

French seams are my favorite type of seam because they look so neat and clean. Any seam you sew must be sewn at least twice anyway...1) the seam, and 2) the seam finish. With a French seam you are encasing the raw edge with in the seam, so you see no raw edge. It works well for light weight fabrics and I often use it as a substitute for flat fell seams.

trimming your seam allowance back to 1/8"

Step 1 - Sewing the inseam

To begin take one back pant leg and one front pant leg and with wrong sides together sew the inseam of your pant leg at 3/8". After sewing trim your seam allowance back to 1/8".

Press to set the stitch into the fabric. Open and press the seam allowance to one side.

Now fold the seam along your stitch line placing the right sides of your fabric together and stitch again this time at 1/4".

Repeat this for the other pant leg.

Step 2 - Marking Ruffle placement.

Fold your hem up to the wrong side 1/2" and press. Fold again along your hem line (mine was 4") to the wrong side and press again.

Lay your pant leg on a table with right side facing you and the pressed hem layed out flat so that you can see the hem fold you just pressed.

Draw a line parallel to your hem line 1" up from the crease.

Draw 2 more lines 1-1/4" each above the first line.

You can use a pencil or dissapearing ink marker, whichever shows up the best on your fabric.

This marks the placements lines for our ruffles to go on.

Step 3 - Sewing Side Seam

side seam with wrong sides together and ruffle placement marked ready for its french seam.

Using your french seam technique again sew your side seams on both pant legs. You now have two pant legs ready to be hemmed and ruffled.

Step 4 - Hemming

Hemming from inside the pant leg.

Pin you hem in place.
Turn your pant legs right side out.
Edge stitch your hem, by sewing from inside the pant leg as pictured.
To edge stitch you will stitch right next to your top fold all around your hem. You do not need to back stich because as you come around to complete the hem you can sew a few stitches over from where you started.

Step 5 - Sew your ruffles into loops.

Take one of your 6 ruffled strips and french seam the short ends together to for a loop.
You may need to remove a tuck or two on each end to accomplish this neatly.
Repeat for all ruffled strips.

Step 6 - Sew your ruffles to your pant legs

If you have a free arm sewing the ruffles on is a good opportunity to use it.
If you do not have a free arm, sew from inside the pant leg, as you did the hem.
Pin your ruffle loop down the center to the 1st line (nearest your hem) and stitch down the center.
If your loop is a longer the your pant leg just add a tuck into your ruffle. If your loop is short take a tuck out by removing some stitches.
Repeat with 2 more ruffles moving up the pant leg each time.
Once all three ruffles are on one leg, repeat the process for the other.

Step 7 - Sew your crotch seam.

Now that you have two ruffled pant legs. Take one pant leg and turn it inside out, so that you have one leg right side out, and one inside out.

Insert the right side out pant leg into the inside out pant leg and line up your inseams.
Pin around your crotch and stitch.
Next finish your seam by trimming back to 1/4" and zig zagging or serging or using the overlock stitch on your machine if it has one. You can check your manual to see.

back crotch curve is deep front crotch curve is shallow

You should now have pajama pants, not just pajama pant legs. Congratulations!
Next week we will finish them by smocking our waistband.

Previous pajama pantaloon posts:
The Pantaloon Plan
Lets Begin
Cutting Strips for Ruffles
Sewing Ruffles

Jeans That Fit You...Oh happy thought:)

2011-08-20T06:51:00.000-05:00

The Nicolet Continuing Education Catalogs have arrived. The Fall schedule runs thru Dec. You can also print or save the pdf catalog if yours has not arrived yet.

Jeans That Fit:

This class has 4 Saturday sessions in September. We will using the Jalie pant pattern which has received rave reviews. There is a class material fee of $45.00 dollars which will include the pattern, denim, zipper, jean button and studs essential for professionally finished jeans. You need to understand pattern instructions, sew basic seams and have your own machine. If you struggle with finding jeans that fit, we will end that struggle for you. You get to be the "Decider"! Low rise? Medium rise? High rise? Boot cut? Straight cut? Flares? You decide......excited at the possibility of having jeans that fit you in the waist and the hip? Please join me then in making your perfectly comfortable jeans

Class starts on Sept 3rd is held for 4 Saturdays thru Sept 24th.

Time: 10:00 - 3:00 Class #20700

Cost: $65.80 Seniors pay $43.08 with a $45.00 kit fee.

Which will provide you with a custom made pair of jeans and a pattern for future pairs!

Location: Nicolet Campus BC107 ( building 7 on the map)

Mail in registration begins Aug. 11th, Phone in/walk in Registration begins Aug 19th

Stretch Jeans

The Stretch jeans have a low rise, or regular rise option and although the pattern calls for a modest 2 way stretch, we can make the necessary pattern alterations in class to provide for a non stretch denim if your prefer. The pattern also provides sizing for little girls as well as accommodating a hip measurement of 36" to 53"

This is the style I am planning on using for my sample jeans and I just purchased this yardage from Sawyer Brook denim collection to make them from. Cannot wait for it to arrive:) My 2nd pair will be in corduroy...for sure.

The twill weave featuring black and white results in a deliciously subtle charcoal color that works with so much. Great weight for jeans or jackets. Cotton/spandex. 62 in. (C)

Jalie also has this more traditional style pattern to choose from it also includes children's as well as women's with a hip measurement ranging from 36" up to 67" and is made for use with a non stretch denim, but remember we get to be the deciders so you could use a modest stretch denim with this pattern as well.

Traditional non- stretch jeans

The kit for the class if you choose to purchase it, will include a traditional navy denim with the necessary supplies to create your jeans. Alternatively you can provide your own denim and zipper with a reduced kit fee of $25.00.

I would appreciate being notified as soon as possible when you have signed up for class so that I know what kind of supplies to purchase and in what quantity.

Let me know if you have any questions as well.

Hope to see you all there.

Jeans that fit......me:)

2011-08-16T10:21:00.000-05:00

The Jeans that fit class at Nicolet begins on Sept 3rd and so I thought as a teaser I would show you how my sample jeans turned out.

I am really quite pleased.

What I like:

The color, this Charcoal is a nice change of pace and will help me move into fall. The fabric is a lighter in weight than standard jeans, which will be dynamite for summer, but I am thinking a bit thin for winter...you all know how cold I always am.
The Fit...this should really be #1 right? They look great and are comfortable.
The rise is just where I wanted it
The top stitching color and width pleases me
Construction - they were simple to put together, but I am glad I have a few machines to set up so that I did not have to change my thread and needle constantly....having 2 machines made it more convenient.
My husband says they look great
My husband says they look great - lol

After a day of wearing, they look just like my favorite BKE jeans but shorter....Hmm, not happy with how short they are, great with flats though.

I am throwing in some additional construction pictures....why not...right?

The back pocket

The Front pockets and fly. I added the coin pocket.

This is my waistband which Jalie has you place on the bias. As you can see I pressed a gentle curve into it prior to sewing to keep it from gaping on along the back.

I used a piece of selvage tape along the top of my waistband to keep it from stretching out on me as I top stitched. I made the length of the tape the same as my low rise waist circumference to insure it would not become to large or to small. You know how that bias likes to stretch on you.

Had to add a final shot of the rivets. I chose this tarnished silver, but the tarnished brass was another tempting option.

These jeans are part of my wardrobe plan for fall of 2011. To see more check out the links below.
Fall wardrobe plan

Fall Wardrobe 2011

2011-08-14T19:44:00.001-05:00

I am loath to admit that summer is coming to a close...glorious warm and sun drenched summer...But my despair at summer's passing is always brightened by Fall Fashion. Fall is my favorite fashion season because I love sportswear and separates, textures and layering and of course that is what fall is all about. Some brilliant women on Pattern Review started a thread for a fall sew along.....I do love a sew along....and I do love fall fashion....and I do need some new items in my wardrobe...or perhaps what I need is to sew up some of the lovely fabric I have here in the studio.

So what do I have in my studio?

Nothing says fall quite like a pumpkin plaid right?

Now for the plan....

Jalie jeans in the denim ...which are already underway...Hooray!

A vintage Vogue wool jacket, which will really dress those jeans up, not to mention brighten up some other items in my wardrobe. This project has been in the stash for ....4 yrs now, so I think its time don't you?

This wool came from Sawyer Brook I believe several years back as well and I want to make this pencil skirt with the interesting detail at the hem. I will make this from my skirt block and use it as a sample skirt for my Sewing Lab 102 class coming up in September....Better get a move on then:)

The Pumpkin felted wool I have just enough to make a vest from. I am not sure it will be this Folkwear pattern..I am mulling over something far more simple, but we shall see.

So what do you think of my plan?

Have you started sewing for fall or are you onto winter? Sheesh

Want to see the finished items? Just click on the links below.
Jeans

Pajama Pantaloon - Sewing Ruffles

2011-08-12T19:09:00.001-05:00

It's time to make ruffles:)

Gather your supplies:

Iron and board

Spray starch - optional but helpful

Sewing machine- cleaned and ready for work

Thread- All purpose to match your fabric

Ruffler foot - optional

Narrow hem foot - optional

Scissors - I prefer small embroidery type

Fabric strips- see tutorial from 8/10/11

Press your strips using a liberal amount of spray starch. I really like the Best Press starch because it never clogs or spots your fabrics. I really like their lavender scented, but unfortunately my allergies will no longer allow me to enjoy scented anything...sigh. So it's the unscented version for me. I pick mine up at our local quilting store, but I noticed that she has some other very intriguing products on her site.....

Ruffler Narrow hemmer Adapter

To begin sewing we will hem our strips using 1 of 2 methods.

Method 1 will be with the narrow hem foot.

Method 2 will be without.

Method 1:

The Narrow hem foot in the center creates the tiniest of rolled hems, simply lovely.

The drawbacks to this foot though are that it cannot hem the first 1" or so of your project.

Nor can it sew over seams as the bulk will not feed through properly.

It also does not perform well on bias edges.

It is perfect though for our strips, and say dust ruffles. Any long straight lengths.

My narrow hemmer is an old foot from Singer that came with my Singer 301. I can use it on my Bernina with the help of the adapter. Old sewing feet like ,my narrow hemmer, screwed on, but the newer machines use various kinds of quick release features, which are handier than having to pull out a screwdriver every time you change your foot. Using the adapter allows me to screw my singer foot on to the bottom, and then attach it to my Bernina. For information on where to purchase the various feet mentioned here please check this post

Thread your machine and attach you narrow hem foot. To see how to use it, watch the video:

Now cut yourself an extra strip of fabric at least 12" long and practice using your hemmer.
Comfortable?
Hem all your strips along both long sides.

Now to Ruffle.
Place tape 1" to the left of your needle to use as a guide to stitch down the center of your strips.
Attach your ruffler foot by printing up these instructions from Singer.
Set your pleat spacing to 6 stitches between pleats and your stitch length at 2.5
Watch the video:

Grab your sample strip again and practice pleating up your fabric strips.

Practice?

Pleat up your strips....its fun....so enjoy:)

Method 2:

Press your strips as instructed at the beginning of the post. Now you will prepare your strips for a rolled hem.

Fold the long edge of your strips to the wrong side a fat 1/8". I would recommend preparing one side of each strip this way, then after sewing return to do the other side.

I use my #37 foot/quilters foot for sewing rolled hems and I move my needle position 1 click to the left on my Bernina.

You will need to do some practicing and experimenting to see which foot and what settings are easiest for you.

Roll the pressed fold of your fabric towards the center the same fat 1/8". Position your fabric so that the fold on the left sits just within the inside edge of your presser foot and stitch, continuing to roll the edge over as you sew.

Once your strips are hemmed on both sides. Lengthen the stitch on your machine to 4 and starting 1/2" from the short end stitch down the center of each strip, ending 1/2" from the end. Be sure you leave a thread tail at the beginning and end of each strip.

Your strips are now ready to be gathered into ruffles, but lets wait until you have sewn your pants up.

Method 1 will have ruffled strips like these. Method 2 will be flat and not gathered yet.

Next Friday we will dig into sewing the pantaloons together.

Let me know how you did, and please ask for help if need be.

Pajama Pantaloons - Cutting Strips for Ruffles

2011-08-10T20:49:00.001-05:00

Today I am doing a mini tutorial on how to cut the fabric strips for your ruffles.
The quilting industry has developed some handy tools for cutting strips, which work equally well for garment sewing.
For cutting narrow strips of fabric quilters use the technique you will learn today. If you are already familiar with this, you can come back on Friday to learn how to hem and gather/tuck your strips.

Gather your supplies for learning Rotary cutting:

1. 1/2 yard of fabric to match pantaloons or a contrast would be cute as well

2. 3" x 18" ruler

3. rotary cutter

4. Rotary cutting mat

We need 6 strips of fabric 2" wide by the WOF
(this means width of fabric from selvage to selvage).

Fold your fabric so the selvage's lay on top of each other and the fabric lays smooth with no twists in it.

Now fold, the fold on top of the selvage edges.

Lay your fabric on your cutting mat and with the folds lining up with the horizontal lines on the cutting matt. Lay your ruler so that it follows a vertical line and cut your fabric by running the rotary cutter along the edge of the ruler. This takes some practice so I suggest you try it on some scrap fabric first. Just play with the rotary cutter to get a feel of how it works, how much pressure it takes to cut through 4 thickness (probably less then you think). Also practice cutting along the ruler so being careful that your ruler does not slip.

Have you practiced?

Then go ahead and cut that first rough edge off. Make sure you are cutting through all 4 layers. Sometimes that leading edge is really wonky and you may need to go quite a bit deeper then the 1/2" I need for my first cut.

At this point I flip my fabric around so the edge I just cut is to my left, instead of my right. Lay your C-thru ruler along your new edge so that the 2" mark is onto of your cut edge. You will now cut a 2" wide strip by using your rotary cutter to the right edge of the ruler.

Repeat this step until you have 6 - 2" wide strips.

Now if you don't want to invest in cutting mats and rotary cutters, etc. You can do it the way my mama taught me:)

Mark 6 lines on your fabric, 2" apart with a pencil and then cut along the pencil lines.

Oh boy your strips are ready to become ruffles now =D

Comment Trouble:(

2011-08-07T17:27:00.001-05:00

Is it just me?

For awhile now I have been having difficulty posting my comments on other blogs as well as my own.

Frustrating!

So I have continued to try and sometimes it would work but most of the time not. I would get stuck in this loop where it would keep asking me to sign in, when I already had. Sometimes it would allow me to post anonymously, but not always.

Frustrating!!

Today I finally spent some time investigating this issue and discovered that it is a cookie problem....

really? I also discovered that this is a common problem and that it can reduce the comments on your blog by 50%! Additionally I recently had someone question me on how not to post anonymously and I am now wondering if this "cookie" problem wasn't the issue.

So, if you have had this problem. Go to "tools" on your Internet provider,

then Internet Options >Privacy > and change your setting to Allow all Cookies.

I am now once again able to comment on the blogs I visit as well as our blog, which is rather important because after all we are having a Pajama Party Sew Along.

The article I read on the subject also mentioned that it has to do with the embedded comment form. When the comment form is a pop up window problem solved.

My next investigation will be to see how to change my comment form to the pop up window style:)

Thanks for reading and I hope this helps someone besides myself

Pajama Party - Lets Begin Shall We

2011-08-05T11:21:00.001-05:00

Hope you all are as excited as I am to have some stylish pantaloons.

Is anybody sewing something other then the pantaloons?

Please let me know so I can address your questions appropriately:)

Lets begin by pre-washing our fabric. It can be in the wash while we prepare our pattern for cutting, which is my kind of multi-tasking.

You want to pre-wash your fabrics for a few different reasons.

The key issue is shrinkage, you don't want your garment to become to small after sewing because you failed to pre-wash it. Denims, flannels and homespun should be washed and dried at least 2x.
Grain perfection is another key reason to pre-wash. The grain of the fabric is distorted from being wrapped onto a bolt or roll, washing helps return the grain so that the cross grain is at a right angle to the lengthwise grain. Why is this important? Your garment cannot hang straight if the garment is not cut on the straight of the grain.

Pre-wash and dry your fabric at the temperature suggested for the fabric type and the conditions you are most likely to use during wear. For cottons this generally means hot water, and a hot dryer, for silks and rayon jerseys cold water, gentle cycle and line dry or air tumble.

Now that your fabric is having its grain perfected, lets start our pattern work

I happened to have The Jammie pattern from Favorite Things in my stash from a class I taught years back, so this is what I am using to create my pantaloons, but any simple drawstring pant style will work. Of course if you have a self drafted pant block(luxury) you can use that as well.

Gather supplies and information:

To prepare you pattern for cutting you will need:

The pattern

Tape measure

String or elastic to tie around waist and upper thigh

Personal measurement chart or scrap paper

Pencil and Pen

Rulers - I prefer C-thru quilters rulers, a 1x12 and 3x18 or larger.

Paper scissors

Iron and Ironing board

Taking Measurements - This is the information part. Now if you have a current personal measurement chart you can just get your information from there. If you don't I highly recommend you start one so that you don't need to measure yourself every time you start a project. It does need to be updated yearly though. Here is a chart to print

The Measurements:

Hip/ Seat circumference at the fullest part. For some this will be at the abdomen and for others across the buttocks.
Pant Rise - this is the distance between your crotch and your desired waistline. Tie a string around your desired waistline ( where you want the top of your pantaloons to sit). Tie a string around your upper thigh, just below your crotch. Now measure the distance between the two along your side.
Hem length - Measure from your desired waist line to your desired hem line, for Capri's mid calf or below, for pants measure to the floor.

Find your Pant front and Back pattern pieces and remove them from the tissue by cutting around them. There is no need to cut on your size line at this time, just free them from the tissue.

Press with a dry iron...yes press the tissue, it will not burn but steam might cause shrinking so be careful to change the setting on your iron to dry and press out all the folds and wrinkles.

Choose your correct pattern size by comparing your full hip/seat circumference measurement with the body measurements on the pattern envelope. My full hip measures 38" which on the Jammie's patterns puts me at a Medium and on most commercial patterns size 12. Now don't freak because this number is so different then the clothing sizes you purchase.

Pattern sizing does not correspond to retail clothing, trust the pattern size....really:)

Now if you like the design on your pant pattern the way it is shown on the envelope you might be ready to start cutting your fabric. Meaning the waist line is sitting where you want it to, and you do not want to raise or lower it. You will need to check the hem length though by measuring along the side seam of the pattern from waist to hem and lengthening or shortening as required. The pattern usually indicate a place along the leg where you can do this. To lengthen you cut along the line and spread the pattern apart the desired length taping a piece of paper in between to fill the gap. To shorten you can fold the tissue up the needed amount.

For my Pantaloons though I am lowering the waistline, and shortening to Capri length so lets begin making those pattern changes.

Begin by extending your grain line through the entire length of the pattern pieces.

Mark your crotch line by drawing a line perpendicular to your grain line and level with the bottom of the crotch line of your pattern. Some patterns already have this indicated for you.

Measure up from your crotch line to your new waistline at the side seam and mark.

Measure down from the original waist to that mark. Mine was about 3"

Create your new pant waistline by marking that distance across the entire waist of the pattern piece.

Create your hemline/fold . Starting at your new waistline measure down the side seam to your desired Capri, or pant length, mark and create a line at that mark and perpendicular to your grain line.

To create your hem allowance. Measure down from your hemline 4.5" if your making Pantaloons, or desired hem width, say 2" for a standard hem. The deeper hem adds support for the ruffles we will be adding later.

You can now cut across your hem cut line.

Before cutting out the rest of your pant leg fold your pattern along the hem line/fold, and pin in place. Now you can cut the rest of your pattern out. Once the pattern is cut remove the pins and press the pattern flat once again. Folding the hem before cutting insures that your hem is the correct width and will not cause puckering when sewing from being to small.

Repeat these steps for both front and back pant legs. Although this took me several hours to post about it will probably take you around an hour, or under.

You can now cut out your pants following the directions on your pattern. In addition to the pants you will need to cut 6 strips of fabric 2" wide by the 42" - 60"width of your fabric to create the ruffles with.

Next week we will make our ruffles:)

Please let me know if you have any questions or have progress pictures you would like to share.

Caped Crime Fighter

2011-08-03T17:27:00.001-05:00

Here it is....can you believe it? What a journey! For all of my friends and family who have heard the tales of woe, purchased drinks for me during mad rants, hugged me through actual tears...Thank you. Thank you for your kind support and continued friendship.

Now that the lessons have been learned and the hurdles leaped I am looking forward to producing more patterns. More patterns for costumes, more patterns for fashion and accessories, more patterns that teach the art of sewing. I hope you like them and I am looking forward to hearing your feedback.

These tissues are familiar to us sewers, but this information and these images have never been produced as patterns before for adult fans. It is all here...Chuck made sure of that.... how many points on the cape? What size is that belt buckle...exactly? ....How do you make a cowl cover? How far apart are the fins on the gloves? How tall is the point on the front of the boot and how low is it in the back? What shade of blue is that anyway? How do I build a Utility belt?

Like this.....you purchase the patterns at WilliamsStudio2.com and you gather your supplies ( all detailed for you) and you follow the directions. You can even come back here for tutorials like this one on making the fins and how to insert them correctly into your gloves.

This is Lynne in her role as a happy camper:)

Now that both patterns are in the house shipping will begin tomorrow. Currently the web-site still shows the patterns as being available as pre-orders, but rest assured they are in stock and shipping quickly. Our wonderful IT guy, Scott Sebring will update the site as soon as he returns from visiting family.

Pajama Party Pantaloon

2011-08-02T12:08:00.002-05:00

Ta Da! my completed Pajama Party Pantaloons.

Chuck says they remind him of Sandra Dee....I will accept that:)

I say I am ready for a pillow fight and a game of Twister

Our Pajama Party sew along will have its first official installment this Friday, so ladies I hope you are gathering your supplies. Speaking of supplies...if you want to make a pair of pantaloons you might want to pick up some additional items above and beyond, your pattern, fabric and thread.

Ruffler narrow hemmer adapter

These feet above are not required to complete the pantaloons, but if you have them on hand or have thought about purchasing them, now might be a good time. I will be showing you how to use them...I have even made some video tutorials for us.

The Ruffler and the Narrow hemmer are old singer feet which you can pick up on ebay, or at yard sales and no you do not need a singer sewing machine to use them.

ebay foot assortment

singer ruffler

singer narrow hemmer

The adapter foot was purchased through my local Bernina dealer for use on my Bernina. This adapter foot is what allows you to use other manufacturers feet. What you need to know before purchasing an adapter is: Are your singer feet low shank or high shank? Bernina makes both adapters but a high shank adapter will not work with a low shank foot. I could not find the adapters on their website but the numbers are #75 standard or #77 short.

Bernina does sell rufflers and narrow hem feet as well, but they do tend to be more expensive then the above alternative.

I also used elastic thread to create the smocking at the top of the pantaloons. Gutterman also makes an elastic thread which will work as well.

If you want ruffles on your hemline, certainly not required but that's fashion for you. I would pick up an additional 1/2 yard of fabric.

So to recap:

Pajama pattern
Fabric and thread to match, plus 1/2 yard for ruffles
Ruffler foot, narrow hem foot and adapter - optional
Elastic thread for smocking
1" wide Ribbon to tie at waist
Universal or sharp machine needles size 10 or 12
A clean sewing machine
Sewing notions - pins, scissors or rotary cutter, iron and board, seam gauge or 1" c-thru ruler, 3x18 c-thru ruler, pencil or fabric marking pen, hand needle, contrast thread, tape measure

Here is a list of the follow up posts. Click on the link to take you to each tutorial.
Lets Begin
Cutting Strips for ruffles
Sewing Ruffles
French seams etc.

Pajama Party Sew Along

2011-07-29T17:38:00.000-05:00

This summer I have been lamenting the lack of proper pajama's for our unusually hot weather. Now you know I love the heat, but it does require proper attire. Seeing as how we only have 2 opportunities to sew together in August at Nicolet, and understanding how busy everyone is this time of year especially here in the North Woods I thought a Pajama Party Sew Along would suit perfectly.

If you are a beginner, pajama pants or capri's are a great place to begin your garment sewing experience. If you have very little time to sew this summer, pajama pants or a nightgown would be the perfect small project.

I will post once a week in August possibly more for this sew along and you can check in and sew along at your convenience. Now I have designed a pair of pantaloons for my summer p.j.s, which I will post in a day or two, but you are welcome to sew any garment that you would wear for sleeping or lounging.

We will begin August 5th (Friday) and you will need to let me know your joining by commenting below. I f you will be making pajama pants you will need the following supplies

Pant pattern such as New Look 6160, McCalls 3432
Required fabrics and notions per pattern instructions.

This will be your opportunity to ask questions of me through the site which I will do my best to answer in the form of pictures or videos as the case may be. So dust off your sewing machine, dig through your stash and lets do some sewing together.

To get you thinking about your pajama's here is some inspiration.

Nighty Nights

These look like they would certainly do the trick for hot summer nights. A pattern made by Favorite Things and found at their on-line store The Sewing Garden

Chinese pajamas

For something elegant you might want to try these Chinese pajamas from Folkwear patterns

Princess slip

For the lover of vintage nostalgia, this Princess slip from Folkwear would make a beautiful nightgown

Free Pattern from Sew News

Keeping it simple this pattern is available on Sew News as a free download. So all you need is a printer and some tape.

I hope you are all fired up to join me for a Pajama Party.

Fairy Costume - Complete

2011-07-29T08:08:00.000-05:00

A drum roll seems an inappropriate sound for the arrival of a Fairy queen, perhaps flute and zither?

Regardless of the music the completion of this Fairy costume was a proud moment for me..can you tell?

Lynne Williams with Fairy costume 2011

The joy of a silk and rayon velvet can clearly be seen in these pictures. It captures the light and soothes the senses don't you think?

Hemming Velvet at Williams Studio 2

Peg and I are placing the swing tacks that hold the hems together. The final touch completed the afternoon before Sue arrives for her final fitting.

Sue/client contributed the fabrics, the wings and the fabulous beaded purse which was a design element I presented in my original sketch to her. This purse arrived at our 2nd meeting along with some other possibilities. She has been collecting materials for this project for many years, and I am thrilled to have been the recipient of this commission.

Fairy Costume - Williams Studio 2 - 2011

The bodice is outlined with a embroidered applique which was died this bronze color and then some metal sequins added to catch the light.

The sleeves are edged along the top with a narrow metallic gimp and the sleeve hem was cut to mimic the wings and then edged with a metallic thread.

The belt which holds the purse is detachable and made from an upholstery trim, backed with Petersham ribbon and then trimmed at center front with a brass jewelry finding to replicate a buckle.

Slippers fit for a Fairy - Williams Studio 2

I do love these slippers! which did cause Sue to "Gasp". They were an additional surprise for her.

There is a mini tutorial if you would like more information about them.

Fairy wreath - Williams Studio 2

The head piece which enhanced Sue's ginger hair, the highlights in the wings, and the contrast trim on the bodice. Crazy fun isn't it?

Presenting Sue Sadowske in her Fairy Queen Costume - by Williams Studio 2

Here is our Fairy Queen standing in my humble fitting room. She seems well pleased.

I have mixed emotions about this project coming to an end. It always feels good to finish a project but this one was particularly fun for me, so I am a little sad to no longer be creating such fantasy. Working on it reminded me of sewing in dark theatre basements, traveling with Harry Blackstone Jr. and making pyramids for Ronnie James Dio. Creating costumes means doing something different every day, exploring new techniques, working with new materials, playing with light and form and collaborating with other creatives.

I will be posting more tutorials on this project now that I have met the deadline so please check back if you want to learn about sewing on velvet, how to make swing tacks and that sleeve hem finish.