Craftsy Block of the Month - May

I am all caught up with my Craftsy blocks of the month now...Hurray!

I can't believe I have 10 completed blocks and they are all very bright and colorful.  Its been fun working with these colors and exploring some new techniques. 

 I really recommend this class if you would like to expand your sewing skills, learn to quilt, or play with color. 

This block is called "Modern Log Cabin"  Sewn in the traditional manner of a log cabin block but adding the background fabric between the color strips as well as changing the width as you move around the block.

Reminds me of the Polariod blocks that Rachel did over at Stitched in Color....which I really like and hope to get to do one day.

This 2nd block is called "Wonky Log cabin" which uses the same techniques as crazy quilting but you do not use a foundation fabric, you simply sew strips around a center medallion until you have a piece of fabric that is larger than your required block size and than true her up.

Looking forward to seeing what June has to offer 

1912 Project Blouse #1000 Muslin Complete

I took a half day off of work, which is to say cape sewing, to finish the muslin for blouse #1000.

The last time we looked at the muslin it still needed its sleeves, front waistband and collar.

Now it has all of its appropriate parts.....attached even - lol

You can just see a bit of the front waistband.  I cut 2 pieces 1-3/4" x 12-3/4" to create the waistband and waistband facing.  This creates a finished waist measurement of 24".

Take one of your waistband strips and press to the wrong side along one long edge and both short edges 3/8".  This will become your waistband facing.

Sew the waistband onto the shirt front gathering between dots. 

Repeat with the facing piece, sandwiching the blouse between the two and being careful to leave the facing free from the seam allowance edge on both short ends.

Press your seam allowance towards the waistband.

You can now sew your side seams.

Once you have attached the peplum you can finish the waistband by hand stitching the facing in place to cover the seam allowance.

I love how in this angle you can really see the appropriate silhouette for the time period. A little more bust and you would have less drooping at the front waist. Remember my dress form is 2" smaller at the bust than the pattern measures.

  Notice though how this right(seen on the left) sleeve drags a bit to the back of the blouse?

This sleeve hangs correctly because the peak of the shoulder is siting in the correct place and the gathering is distributed correctly.  

You can replicate this by:

 Placing a notch on the front bodice 3/4" forward of the shoulder seam, that will mark the actual shoulder.  Remember how the shoulder seam favors the back of the blouse?

Now place a corresponding notch on the sleeve cap in the center of the tuck lines.  Doing this will make setting in the sleeve much easier and prettier.

The cuff does not quite meet at the center to expose the tuck detail, but some gathering is required to make the sleeve fit the cuff.  

The total amount of gathering is 1-1/2"  I placed dots (to gather between) on my sleeve pattern 1-1/2" on either side of center for a total of 3".  Stitch a gathering line between these dots and adjust to fit your cuff.

The pattern allows for a 1/2" finished placket and you might want to add a little more to this depending on the size of your buttons. 

The peplum allows for a little more fullness over the seat than my dress form has, but should accommodate a "real" seat quite nicely, maybe even a bit of a bustle.

I finished the collar by using a narrow piece of self bias as a facing strip.  

From the looks of my collar though it appears as if I may have one side on back to front.....I thought I double checked that, but that extra bit of lift there on the left side lets me know something is not quite right.

Boy you can really see it in this shot.  

The collar fits in beautifully though if you leave a 1/2" space at the center front.

Now its time to adapt a muslin for contemporary wear....But before I can do that I  need to rig a roman shade, alter a bridesmaids dress and cut out another Bat Cape.

What will you be sewing today?

To the Beach Quilt Stat!

My goal for many years now has been to have seasonal bedding.  In Wisconsin that means winter and summer, and summer is really more like an extended spring, which is why we still need quilts on our beds. 

The first quilt I made for our bed was definitely for winter, but I have yearned to lighten the palette for the spring and summer months, make something that felt resort like. Chuck is from Florida and the thing he misses the most about his home state....the beaches

Now I understand why. 

 This looks warm and inviting whereas in my home state of California we have.....

Rocky beaches with cold dark water and vicious currents.

Feel free to scroll back up to that Floridian beach to help you get over the chill that has just set in before you continue to the actual quilt project.

Charlotte Angotti

This is the pattern I am using as my launching point.  It is called "The Natural" by Charlotte Angotti.

The pattern is for a 60 x 72" quilt but I need it for a queen bed with a very deep mattress.

This change in size required adding a pattern repeat horizontally and vertically.

If  I did my math correctly the quilt will require 265 half square triangle units and 144 four patch units!

It took 2 sessions to get all my strips and squares cut from my batik scraps but don't these colors remind you of the sea?

  

My set up at the machine for sewing the half square triangle units.  After I have sewn a dozen or so, I cut press and square.

My first batch!  Does this say beach to you?  This is the exciting part about quilting, when you see your color choices come together.  Now I am anxious to do more, but for now it's back to capes, cowls and alterations

My plan is to do 30 minutes a day of piecing, which should get me a quilt top in no time:)....no time at all - lol

Craftsy BOM - April

This is me playing blogging catch up....my bad:)

Don't be surprised if you see a flurry of posts, all things I wanted to share with you in April but just couldn't get my blogging mojo going. 

This post features my Block of the Month for April....yes April...and here we are mid May!!

and no I have not even started my May blocks.....but I have started my beach quilt...:D but more on that a little later.

This first block for April is called " Hexi Stripe Block" and it used paper templates.

After printing the template up I made copies out of freezer paper which I than ironed onto my fabric scraps.

I enjoy doing this kind of hand work in the evening don't you?

It's so relaxing.

The 2nd block for this month, was a bit of a free for all using the hexagon.

I did not care for the pattern that our instructor Amy had chosen, so after playing with the templates for a bit I settled on this.  I think it will work better with the rest of the blocks, but time will tell.  In fact it just may be time to attempt a picture of the completed blocks together.  

For those of you taking this free class, are  you keeping up each month, or have you become sidetracked with some other fabulous project? 

1912 Project - Blouse #1000 - Muslin

I have made some small progress on my first 1912 project blouse..

This is the illustration that accompanied my pdf pattern.  There were no instructions but the templates for the embroidery work on the peplum cuffs and collar are included.

The pattern is labeled for a 36" bust

The measurments on the blouse are:
Bust: 37-1/2"        
Waist: 23"            
   Hip/peplum width at hem: 43"
Sleeve length: 15-5/8"    
   Bicep: 14-5/8"

My size 6 dress form measures:  Bust 35-1/2", Waist 24", Hip  34".

While taping my pattern together I noticed a few grain lines that did not match up....which makes me question my taping, but if  you follow the stitch lines you can't be to crazy off, right?....

  

Once the pattern was taped I began trueing it up.  The first thing you notice is that the back side seam measures 1" longer than the front.

The collar pattern has one of those mismatched grain lines and is not the same size as the template.  The center back seam is not indicated on the back pattern piece so at this point I am unsure which pattern is correct. 

There is no pattern piece for the waistband...hmmm

Additionally the tucks indicated on the pattern are in three different sizes:

5/8" on the fold, on the center front pattern piece

3/8" on the fold, on the back pattern piece

&

1-1/2" on the fold, on the sleeve

This is confusing to me and I am not sure if its a digitizing over sight or what.....

I chose to make them all the same size (5/8") because they look to be all the same in the illustration.  But the reality of the situation is it doesn't really matter what size you make because you need to stitch them up on your fabric prior to cutting the pattern pieces out.  

If you are unfamiliar with this process, no worries I will show you more about this when I make up the actual blouse.

For the muslin the tucks are not required, so you could skip this step for your muslin process if you like.

Here is my muslin without its sleeves or collar.  Fortunately I have a size 6 dress form, very helpful for this process, as it takes some of the guesswork out of it. 

The 3/4 view shows you how cleverly the fullness is kept to the front, while the rest of the garment hugs the body...and I mean hugs.

In this shot you can see how the side seam favors the back as it approaches the armseye.

You might be asking yourself at this point what happened to that 1" difference along the side seam..

  

I decided at this stage to baste the peplum on 1' higher across the back of the bodice. 

Once it was all together it occurred to me the difference in the side seam length might explain the missing waistband piece...Could the waistband sew to the front only making up the 1' difference needed to match up to the back?  Will try that next so stay tuned.

..

The shoulder seam favors the back as well, not at all unusual in garments from this period. 

And finally we have the back, which will fit better once that peplum gets moved down an 1"

I am looking forward to sewing the sleeves, collar and adding that waistband so don't forget to check back to see how that effects things.

This is my kind of mystery I tell you what:)

Dangerous Artists & Peter does Coco

My sister recently sent me this poster image from the Cold War....

I had never seen it before, but of course it gave us a good laugh here in the studio where it is true we "mix it up" frequently.  I had no idea we were so subversive.

Speaking of Dangerous Artists .....

How fantastic is this print I just purchased of Coco Channel?

It was created by Peter Emmerich an artist my husband worked with at Disney

Isn't she fabulous!!  

Peter has other wonderful and affordable prints at his Etsy store.  

check out the fashion note cards...

Enough procrastinating for me now....no really I just thought you all would appreciate the art and subject matter. 

Its time for me to make a bat cape, a robin mask and sew some ears on a cowl.  

If I am positively productive I just might get to catch you all up on the 1912 project progress when I am done.

Vintage Fashion - A Spectator by Guildford

I feel I must begin this post by apologizing a tad for my lack of enthusiasm for blogging...following blogs...posting....commenting ....etc.  

I have been working on some fun projects though and when my enthusiasm returned I could not find my camera!!  Seriously.....it's not like me to panic about these things....no matter how organized I am, I misplace things on a fairly regular basis.... usually they reappear eventually.  

My camera made it's appearance last night when my mother handed it back to me -lol

So first thing this morning I captured these pics of  a vintage dress of my mothers.

She purchased this dress in the early 50's when she was a girl of 15 to wear to a school dance.

She used multiple crinolines under it and wore it with a black patent leather belt and black pumps.

The belts chains on the dress are in black and would accommodate a 1 inch belt. I used a piece of velvet ribbon I had about.

The skirt is made in 8 gores and the hem circumference  measures 260 inches!

In these pictures I have 2 crinolines under the skirt and it could easily be double that.

Makes you want to dance doesn't it?

The cotton on this dress had a glazed finish on it, which has worn away due to multiple washing's.

My bad....I wore this dress frequently in the 80's and machine washed it roughly as young people will.

It zips up the side with a metal zipper and has one pocket in the skirt opposite the zip.

Love the details on this dress - These little appliqued roses are all tacked into place with a single rhinestone.

Additional rhinestones are scattered over the bodice.

The neckline and armholes are piped and faced.

I just love the elegant square neckline on the back

The hem is done with rayon seam tape and all of the seams are pinked...so simple

The inside label reads " A Spectator by Guildford" and is the only tag in the garment.

Does anyone have any information on this company?

There is a town by the name of Guildford in the UK...but I did not round up any info for this company.

So for those of you who like a good mystery....

I promise to catch you up on the 1912 project, my gardening overalls, my bra making adventures, the craftsy block of the month project, and Chucks latest endeavor an original scultpture of Adam West

Student Progress - Chris

There is never a dull moment in the studio thanks to all my students.  

They bring projects into my life that challenge and engage me.  Isn't that the best?

Chris and his family will soon be heading off into the woods of Wi. for one year with 26 other familys!

Chris will be teaching them how to live in our rather harsh, but beautiful environment.

With the prospect of this trip in his future Chris decided to make a sleeping bag that would accommodate he and his wife...after all one year is along time to sleep in separate mummy bags

We used his one person bag as our inspiration and drafted a pattern that made it twice the size.

The fabrics were all ordered on line including the insulation material, zippers, elastic cord and toggles.  A day of pattern drafting and cutting and 2 days of sewing has resulted in this amazing accomplishment.  I am looking forward to hearing how it preformed.
Chris has plans to make some flannel sheets which will  button in as well.

Intrigued?  Learn more about the event at Teaching Drum 

Would you be interested/willing to live outside in the Northwoods of Wi. for any length of time?
or...
are you like me...a lover of hot water and central heating?

The 1912 Project - Oh my!!

The 1912 project has taken a radical turn which has me in a conundrum....sigh

When the good folks at the Vintage Lending Library began their project of digitizing and printing patterns from La Mode Illustre, I seriously doubt they expected to have 400 people want to participate.  This left them with the herculean task of not only digitizing the patterns, translating what directions there were from French into English but also distributing those patterns to all of the eager test sewers. 

 Imagine trying to organize 400 eager stitchers! 

 I truly applaud their efforts.

The logistics of this trial has produced important organizational changes the gist of which leaves me deciding which patterns I would like to sew up for them......Honestly I was quite happy with this decision being out of my hands...one less decision for me to make and I like the era, so it's all good....right?

So I am asking for your help dear readers.  After looking through all of the available designs (currently available that is) I chose the ones below as my favorites or possibly useful garments. 

 I can ask for as many as six!  But which do I choose?

What do you think?  Help me choose a design to sew up and blog about.  What catches your fancy?

LADIES DRESS IN JAPAN BLUE TAFFETA WITH SATIN TRIM

#1

This dress has an appealing hem detail and looks relatively straight forward construction wise.  

Could it be useful if the length was modified or do I make it for display/sale?  

LADIES SKIRT WITH SIDE GORES

 #2

This skirt could be charming in a mid calf length( so possibly useful) and it too appears straight forward in construction.

SUIT FOR YOUNG WOMAN IN MARINE BLUE WITH WHITE STRIPE

#3

 This suit is quite intriguing....The suggested fabric is a pin stripe and the pockets are pieced so that the stripe miters.  The collar detail is lovely and it too has an interesting hem detail this time at the back of the skirt.  This would be for display or for sale.

LADIES JACKET IN HEAVY WOOL WITH VELVET ACCENT

 #4

I am in need of a coat and this could be done as suggested in a wool with velvet accents.

LADIES BLOUSE WITH OUT LINING IN CHECK FABRIC WITH STIFF LINEN COLLAR

 #5

This is the perfect school mistress blouse right?  I could update it for sure and I do need blouses:)

Another plus...it's not a large time or financial commitment

LADIES DUSTER COAT

 #6

Another coat possibility...Trim, buttons and large patch pockets in a modified 3/4 length...Rather nice, but what fabric? What color?

Love the hat...not included of course - lol

LADIES BLOUSE WITH CUT WORK AND PLEATS

#7

Another useful blouse....oh so sweet, and yes I would consider hand finishing those scallops and embroidering those charming dots or are they eyelot holes?  Not a fan of the peter pan collar on me but again I could modify that to a more suitable shape but retain the scallop detail

Please vote and save me some agonizing. 

I am looking forward to hearing your opinions.

Congrats to Adam West - Our Favorite Caped Crime Fighter

Had to share this!

Adam West just received a star on Hollywood Blvd.  

Congratulations Adam!

We are honored as well to see our Replica Batman Cowl there as well.  

Thanks to our client Scott Sebring for representing:)

We have now been making these cowl for over 6 years and have had the pleasure of mailing them out all over the world to fans of the 66 Batman TV show.  

If you are not familiar with the series or have not seen it since its original airing in 1966 enjoy this first episode "Hi Diddle Riddle" and learn what "camp" is all about.

Stash Progress - A Wee Bit of Warmth for March

My doctor tells me that they're are two types of people in the world...."those who are hot all the time and those who are cold all the time"

I am one of the later.....

My husband suggested that I try wearing a hat in the studio to help with this problem.  The poor man must be tired of hearing me complain about it, as I throw on a sweater and drag around a corn bag all day. (speaking of which....i best do that pronto)

I have been wanting to learn how to crochet and I need to try this cap thing so....creative symbiosis occurs in the production of 2 beanies 

I found this pattern on Ravelry dug through my yarn box and came up with this pleasing combination of grey and yellow.  The grey merino yarn was left over from a knitted toy project from 15 yrs back and the yellow wool.....I cannot recall, which is very disturbing to me.....This is a tragic consequence of my age.

It took me a few attempts, but crochet is so fun and easy to rip out when you make a mistake that I decided to cement my new skills by making another one.

Some of you may recognize this yarn from my recently completed Smartie sweater.  

Sew....these are my stash busting projects for March along with my UFO project the Short Story Pillow

I was hoping to have my Eva Dress Gardening overalls done this month, but alas it was not to be, but I am determined they shall make the stash busting roster for April:)

What did you sew up from your stash this month?

Craftsy Block of the Month - March

My sewing mojo is at an very low ebb.  A lack of motivation along with project indecision has me working at a snails pace.

I was a might disappointed with myself that I did not get my Eva dress gardening overalls completed in time for the contest, but sometimes you cannot rush the design process.  I am pleased with the direction they have taken, but I feel like I am sewing in treacle....sweet as it is, it has been at a snails pace.

My quilt blocks were on my calendar for this last weekend and they are great fun to whip up.

  Both blocks only take half a day to create and work out best if not over thought :)  

Just the right project for my dragging fingers.

This one is known as a Broken Spider Web

This one is a String block.

Both are foundation pieced on fabric, which is similar to how you crazy quilt.  

It's a fabulous way to use up small scraps which is always useful, but now has me thinking of how to organize my small scraps....by color? 

 Any suggestions would be most welcome :)

I am looking forward to seeing what blocks April will have to offer.  Each month when I complete these blocks I always think " oh...these are me favorite so far"  I suppose this is what keeps us quilting - lol

This quilt is going to end up in the guest room for sure...you know the room with the apricot walls, the room that my recent ufo has moved into.

I am curious to know what you do when you lose your sewing mojo.

How do you find your inspiration and work ethic again?

I might have to lay some blame on Pinterest's doorstep, because I will admit to becoming so overwhelmed with the creative possibilities that  my mind spins out of control and it's hard to settle down to actual creation.  As an example...in the last month I have tried 4 new recipe's, am learning how to crochet, have decided to start making gloves and bras, have found several good projects for students, and started reading a recommended book.....

As my husband says " Well, there's your problem" LOL

March Madness means...Lorax?

 I am sure by now we are all familiar with Lorax.  

The adorable Dr. Suess character and some of us may actually be familiar with the story.  

But I have my own Lorax story to relate...

It begin's with a sweet friend of mine, Cherie. 

Cherie's school is having some "March Madness" days at her school

One of these days involves dressing up as her favorite character....enter the Lorax.

This is where I come into the tale as well....who better to help with a Lorax costume than a friend who sews..and has been known to sew costumes, at that!

Has Cherie sewn before I ask.....

No!

When is this dress up day......I ask with a slight tremor in my voice ( I will admit to this)

Next Week is the reply.....

Oh......is my reply......let's go talk with Mom to talk schedule......

The gist of that discussion is Cherie and I have one afternoon to explore our creativity and teach Cherie how to sew....seriously no problem ( with a little more tremor this time)

The challenge...it must be inexpensive to downright cheap.  It must be a beginning sewing project and it must be accomplished in one afternoon.....

A run to the dreaded Wal-mart  yields an exciting piece of orange flannel at a cut rate price and the drive home solidifies the plan.

I do some of my best problem solving while driving....anyone else?

First thing was first, I had to teach Cherie how to use a sewing machine, my Singer 401 to be exact.

While she practiced sewing on paper and than graduated to seams, I cut out the body of the costume. 

I thought I had a hood pattern, but alas it was not the case,  so while Cherie started sewing the long front and back seams of her costume I drafted a hood pattern.

While I sewed the hood on Cherie cut the yarn for her mustache.

This was the part of the costume Cherie was looking forward to the most....apparently she has a bit of a thing for mustaches....who knew?

Our original plan was to put the eyebrows on the hood...well my original plan was to maybe skip the eyebrows altogether...but "we" decided it must have them, and on the hood simply would not do.

I created a buckrum form using Cherie's glasses for a template, which we then hot glued the yarn to and trimmed in a funky manner.  They are held onto her glasses by 2 clear elastic loops at the outside edges and a tab in the center which wraps around to the back and closes with a small bit of Velcro.

We had so much fun.  Cherie is a quick study and didn't she do a great job?  

This entire costume took us a little over 4 hrs to make and cost $15.00 in materials

It's quick and dirty...no seam finishes...oh my, 

but I think/hope it will be a big hit for her at school.

Cherie tells me her mom is still laughing and so are we:)

Projects like this are a challenge for me because I like to take the long thoughtful approach to my sewing.  I contemplate ways to add a new technique, expand a skill...in general try to create a Haute Couture garment from even the "simplist" project.  It was so much fun though to step out of my routine.

How about you all, do you like these types of fast and furious projects?